Expedition Blog

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RE:

hey,
how are you ?
Just received  my 2010 Suzuki RM-Z 450  from this website.    www.mgjzs.com  much cheaper than others and genuine . if you would like to get one,you can check it out.They have many other items .
all the best for 2010
Regards
Susie

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The final frontier - down through the centre - to home

The final leg had begun - from Katherine, where we left off last time, we travelled for a half a day southward via the Mataranka Hot Springs to Daly Waters, to stay the night at the famous pub.  First we went to Bitter Springs where the water is still as it has always been.  One man saw a turtle which had Sophie all excited but it had long since hidden itself away by the time we went hunting.  Sophie and Rob were not too impressed with the slime around the edges and the smell associated (a little bit like rotten egg gas) but Matthew and I were able to ignore that in the thrill of swimming from one end to the other and back and we were surprised by the strength of the current.  We then visited the other springs near the Homestead Caravan Park which were so vastly different with the paving in to the water, similar to those at Katherine Springs.

 

Our timing at reaching Daly Waters couldn't have been better as it was the last night of their almost as famous Beef'n'barra Barbie with 'ntar-tainment provided by Frank the Chook Man.  We had been warned that the pub never turn anyone away and that it can get squishy in the sites so we should be there before lunch, well we got there mid afternoon and still managed to snag ourselves a great spot with a bit of shade and some wonderful neighbours in Darren and Karen and their kids, from Queensland, who were travelling in the opposite direction.  Some leisurely time was spent cooling off by the pool and chatting with some other nomads before sightseeing around 'town' – out to the old WWII aerodrome, the Stuart tree (for the life of us we couldn't find the S) and the petrol station and carving shop.  We loved Franks van with the back seat drivers chair tied to the back stating if you can see this seat then he's lost an in-law….  The man sure has a great sense of humour and provided a wonderful nights entertainment for all.

 

The next day it was onwards, via Tennant Creek to the Devils Marbles where we explored the interesting shaped rocks, pretended to push them over and break them in half before travelling on to Wycliffe Wells, the UFO hub of Australia to stay the night.  There have been more UFO sightings here than anywhere else in Australia with a large number in the last few weeks being reported in the NT Newspaper.  Against Rob's better judgement I convinced him we had to stay.  Unfortunately the weather went foul, it was overcast and drizzly the whole time we were there, which we were informed was very poor UFO spotting weather but even Rob was surprised at the effort that had been put in to the park.  Every surface of the park is painted in murals, mainly depicting aliens, UFO's, abductions etc. but they have also converted the side of a machinery shed into a mountain that you can 'climb' and they have built themselves a lake and a miniature rail track.  They also have donkeys, emus and assorted birds in aviaries, an indoor pool, a restaurant and a games room – all this in the centre of Australia.

 

The following day we arrived in Alice Springs at the McDonnell Range Caravan Park.  Friends from home had recently stayed here and said that it was great for the kids – they weren't wrong – It was like visiting a holiday resort for children.  I am amazed we have been allowed to leave.  There are jumping pillows, two playgrounds, assorted bikes for hire, a games room, a swimming pool, need I go on?  Day one in Alice saw us settle in and do a little sightseeing around the park and then visiting the National Road Transport Hall of Fame incorporating a transport museum and Kenworth dealers hall of fame.  This was for the two truck-mad men in the family, but Sophie and I had an enjoyable time and I guess this makes up for all the times we've dragged them shopping (almost).  Day two saw us visit the East McDonnell Ranges, first stop was Emily Gap, enabling a close up look at the rock surrounding the township of Alice Springs, and a bit of dreamtime artwork by the local Arrernte people, we then visited Corroboree Rock, Trephina Gorge, N'Dhala Gorge,and then Artlunga, an old gold mining town, now a ghost town.  The pub is still operational but unfortunately not on Tuesdays or Wednesdays, and we just happened to visit on Wednesday.

 

Day three we drove out to Chambers Pillar to the south, travelling along side the Fincke Desert Race Track – oooh how I wanted to put the foot to the floor and fly over the hills at 200kms an hour in a Subaru, Corolla or Lancer - at times like this the Hilux just doesn't cut the mustard.  The drive was reminiscent of the trip up to Cape Leveque or at least Middle Lagoon – with soft red bulldust, corrugations and walls of dirt pushed out to the sides, then the scenery changed to harsh rocks and wide open plains, up across ranges and through sandhills – some very interesting driving and some great scenery especially at the destination.  The pillar is so colourful and amazing to behold sitting out in the plains as it does.  On the way down we stopped in at an aboriginal community to have a look at their art gallery and I managed to find a piece I really liked at a price I liked even more, hoping that in buying it here, the money is going straight back to the painter.

 

The next day we had a 'slack day' we looked around Alice Springs briefly, did some shopping, and then had a didgeridoo lesson with Andrew at 'Sounds of Starlight Theatre'.  All four of us patiently attempted to follow what he was teaching us in the short half hour lesson with our other thirty attentive classmates, but try as we might we did not succeed in getting a grip on the double breathing method.  I managed to master a few good sounds, Matthew and Sophie did very well too but Rob just wasn't able to get his mouth to do the magic on the day.  After my lesson I was very keen to purchase a didge to take home and practice but transporting it is one difficulty, and cost another prohibitive at this stage of the trip – that will have to wait until another time.  Sophie bought a small bamboo didge and Matthew bought a rainmaker (could be handy back home if we figure out how to make it work) so I think we have covered the cultural bit.  We also allowed Sophie and Matthew some quiet time around the park, a good chance to have a ride on their bikes on the BMX track, and we even hired one of the four seater bikes and rode them around the park for a while before transferring the remaining time to two four-wheelers for them to ride around on – much more fun for all involved!

 

Day five it was off to the West McDonnell Ranges, first to Simpsons Gap where we laughed at the no swimming sign at the edge of the sandy river bed (very dry), then we visited Serpentine Gorge, then onwards to the Ochre Pits, something we have never seen before and were most magnificent with all their colours.  We then travelled on to Gosse Bluff lookout and around to Palm Valley and Cycad Gorge.  Our favourite for the day would have to be Palm Valley with its interesting 4WD track in and the amazing rocks and trees within the gorge.  

 

Finally it was time to say goodbye to Alice Springs after five nights, so we packed up and moved on - on Fathers Day, but not without the traditional Sunday Pancakes.  The caravan park cook up pancakes for visitors each Sunday morning so for once I didn't have to cook them myself, as Sunday pancakes has been a routine on our trip that I have only missed twice, both times unavoidable.  We then headed off to Kings Canyon, via Ernest Giles Way rather than following the staid bitumen.  As we turned off we scoffed at the sign stating no caravans and drove on, after some of the roads we have travelled in the past seven months this looked a cinch – and it was, cutting off over a hundred kms of driving.  We were in to Kings Canyon in no time, had completed the walk around the bottom with Sophie and I even giving way to a rather strange skittish snake who looked like he had been taking breakdancing lessons.  We waved to some people who had made the trek to the top, cheered some others on as they climbed the steep rocky steps, considered it ourselves, reconsidered, and satiated, moved on rather than staying the night.   

 

Driving along we saw Mt Connor rising up before us and it wetted our appetite to see "the Rock".  Well we were at Uluru before sunset, catching the changing colours, sitting in the carpark and forgoing dinner for nibblies.  We were set up in the caravan park in the dark by the kids bedtime, filled their gaps up with some ice-cream (I know – not a really healthy dinner) and went out to meet the neighbours.  Fletcher and Liz, and their two children, had just traversed the Simpson Desert and after seeing their bodies ravaged by mosquitos at Dalhousie Springs we reassessed the option we had been considering for heading down to Oodnadatta, we would now go there via Coober Pedie.

 

The next morning it was off to Katja Tjuta to do the walks around the bottom of the Olgas.  The colours of the rocks once again amazing, but the walks with the children not so easy, the walk in to the Valley of the Winds getting rather tedious and then once we were at the top of the first lookout they declared they were ready to continue on to the next, with reluctance we turned back hesitant to drag them further - considering we still hadn't visited Ayers Rock as yet.  That afternoon the kids and I visited the resort, had a look around and checked out the shopping centre whilst Rob did the climb.  It is frowned upon by the local tribes but this doesn't deter the many who line up each day.  Rob was thrilled that, after all these years, he was finally able to do it.

 

On our last morning at Yulara it was off to do our own hiking around Uluru, completing a walk into a gorge, a walk along the base and one to a waterhole.  I took a multitude of photos whilst at Uluru, the colours that the rock adopts through the day dramatic when viewed on the computer screen against each other, and included were photos of the texture of the rock, the colours of the stains created by waterfalls and the shadowplays on the mounds.  The place truly is magical to view.  The kids were much keener to walk today after their rest the day before, and fortunately the sight of the rock was enough to create excitement in all of us.  That afternoon we hitched the van again, making it as far as Marla, only a hop skip and a jump from Coober Pedie.  We were therefore there the next morning, after driving through the Breakaways, an amazing colourful sight of mesas atop sandstone.  We beat the rain in setting up the van and were once again sightseeing after lunch.

 

First stop was the Old Timers Mine, which we chose for their self guided tour.  We find that often tour groups move too slowly for the kids' shorter attention spans, this one was fantastic, very informative and also very interesting for the kids to be able to walk through, not only is it one of the old original hand cut mines but previously it was someone's house (they were cutting through to enlarge their daughters bedroom and hit the mine next door), there's also a history museum and a cutter and blower demonstration included.  We also participated in some noodling whilst we were there – the name for fossicking opals, and managed to find ourselves a bit of colour which was great (and a lot of potch – which is the glassy opal without colour).  We then visited a few of the local opal shops and walked the main street.

 

The next morning we were packed again in no time before continuing our sightseeing around Coober Pedie, first stop was Umoona Mine to visit their annex of the South Australian Museum.  Here they have replicas of the Umoonasaurus, a dinosaur found in the Coober Pedie region, and a huge shell like fossil that was so large that the police officer who found it mistook it for an old car tyre.  It was great to be able to walk underground through their tunnels to see how they look when made with both square and round cutting machines.

 

Whilst we were at Yulara, our neighbour Liz kept mentioning, over and over, that the only way to travel was with DVD's for the kids.  Until this time our kids had forgotten that we had DVD players and had coped just fine without them – suddenly they started demanding we hand them over.  With the thought that we were almost home, we relented before leaving Coober Pedie.  At first it was very peaceful in the backseat, but I can now say I am glad we didn't have them out any sooner – the noise from the backseat escalated.  Gone were the days of listening to the stereo, admiring the scenery and playing games together.  The desire to get home increased for us all. 

 

That afternoon it was off to the Oodnadatta track, via the Moon Plain.  This Plain has been the sight of many movies attempting to create either an outer space theme or post holocaust theme, including Mad Max Beyond Thunderdome, I can certainly understand why – it is stark, and almost unnatural looking with the gibber rocks, shards of glasslike gypsum and no sign of life.  We stopped for a visit at another famous establishment, the Pink Oodnadatta Roadhouse which, after reading about it in a variety of articles, Rob was not so impressed with.  Onward we drove, and checked out the bridges and ruins along the old Ghan Railway, including the amazing Algebuckina Bridge before travelling on to William Creek.  William Creek Roadhouse and Caravan Park are situated on Anna Creek Station, owned by S Kidman and Co., this Station is the largest cattle station in the world at 5,875,000 acres and our little jackeroo in the back seat was dying to get out and do some mustering.

 

After attempting a cold shower at the new campgrounds at William Creek on Friday morning, it was off to see Lake Eyre North.  We left behind the van and charged in through more stark plains, rough tracks and past old cattle yards.  Lake Eyre stood before us, a vast flat salt lake that has a hard crust with a dark muddy layer beneath, which only fills every eight years on average.  We walked out a fair distance and looked around us, the wind howling across the lake and ripping through our clothes, the flies using us for shelter, and realised how easily in the past you could lose your bearings.  We then returned to William Creek to collect our van, notify the pub we were back and to let them know that the gas hot water service and solar lighting didn't work.  While Rob was filling the ute he notified the manager who declared that he had no idea and would get the owner to look into the next day, whilst the girl behind the bar informed me that it hadn't been working for weeks and to "deal with it you're in the outback".  I explained that perhaps they should have let us know that when we booked in and she informed us that no-one made us stay there.  I don't mind when something doesn't work, especially in the outback I understand it can't be helped, but I'm sure most people would agree that there's nothing worse than being lied to – we were most disappointed, and it spoiled an otherwise good stay.  So it was off once again, via Lake Eyre South, Coward Springs, Roxby Downs and Woomera to Port Augusta.

 

Just when we thought the kids could put up with no more time away from home, Matthew, our little jackeroo, piped up from the back seat (as we turned towards Roxby Downs) that he would like us to turn left instead of right and go on to Birdsville and then onwards to Longreach – for a five year old he has now got a good grasp of Australian geography, he just wanted to get to the Australian Stockmans' Hall of Fame – this will unfortunately have to wait for our next big trip, already in the planning – watch out Queensland, here we come….. Of course that won't be for around four years as first we will have to pay off the debts from this trip!! 

 

The sightseeing leg of our journey now over, the race was on to see how soon we could get home.  In Port Augusta the night before we estimated another two days of travelling, yet finally we arrived at Robs parents house around twelve hours after departure, with, I hate to admit, lunch and dinner from McDonalds – thank goodness their menu is so extensive!  Considering the exorbitant cost of takeaway, it is considered a luxury, but for once we were happy that the speed and convenience meant we were back on the road quicker.  We also had to take the DVD players off the kids after lunch, as the tension building up in the ute was palatable as we made out way closer to Don and Joan - the children forgot how to share.  Finally, turning in to their driveway, after driving through the dark along roads that we know so well, there to greet us was Brownie, our kelpie, followed by Rob's parents.  The sight of them all bringing big smiles to our faces – we were as good as home. 



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Darwin and surrounds

Finally it was north to Darwin on the Friday, my interview was booked for the Saturday morning with the intention of starting work straight afterwards if all things went to plan.  We booked in to Malak Caravan Park shortly after lunch and had made friends with a fellow traveller by the pool in no time.  It was off to Lisa and Dean's van for the evening to meet a bevy of tennants and enjoy a great night.  Unfortunately a few hours in Matthew fell over and took a fair bit of skin off his face (yes, again).  This time he was running along gripping on to a fast moving bicycle when his fingers were forceably released by his sister who was sitting in the back – you can imagine the rest I'm sure. 

 

It was off to the emergency ward of Royal Darwin Hospital for us.  Five hours after his fall, at midnight (just after we finished our Mcdonalds takeaway) we were finally seen by a doctor.  Matt needed his wound cleaned and stitched and he was dripping a clear liquid out one nostril which was suspected to be CSF (brain fluid).  The rather concerned doctor decided an hour later to admit Matt, for observation and an antibiotic drip, and planned for surgery the next day - a further two hours later, at 3am, Matt and I finally crawled in to bed exhausted.  Welcome to Darwin.  Two days later we were free again, Matthew was all patched up and free of his catheter – jumping from one bed to another!

 

I was now available to start work but the manager was not able to see me until Wednesday so it was off to do some serious sightseeing for the Escott crew with the plan that I may not have any time off for a while.   First we went to Crocodylus Park to see jumping crocodiles and visit the zoo there, our tour guide Renee was most informative and tried valiantly to coerce crocodiles to jump on queue which was really great.  Then we went wandering around Darwin, checking out the mall including the beautiful old Victoria Hotel which was amazingly left standing after the onslaught of Cyclone Tracy.  That evening we went to the Mindil Beach Sunset markets which were most enjoyable and it was very exciting to see such an eclectic choice of food available after being on the road for so long. 

 

The next day it was off to see the jumping crocs on the Adelaide River where I managed to get as up close and personal as I would ever want to with a giant crocodile.  Aggro, a 6.5metre croc came out to greet the boat so we drew up on the bank and he came along and berthed himself beside us and bared his teeth as if on cue, two people at a time were then allowed to walk out on the front of the boat and take photos from behind the feeder – it was rather nerve-wracking to be up so close without anything preventing him from reaching us….  Ahhhh but it was fun!  Chase the boat captain, was also most entertaining.  She has been doing this for quite some time and had a bit of a cheeky side – the previous week she had hooked her hat on the line to see what Aggro would do, and of course he bit it, she has the holes to prove it.

 

Litchfield National Park was next on the agenda, where we managed to see some of the most magnificent waterfalls I have ever seen – and I've seen a few!  Even this late in the dry the water is pumping over, it would be amazing to see what they are like in the wet.  The Lost City was high on Rob's agenda for the day and he wasn't disappointed.  Our favourite rock formation here was one I nicknamed the one armed giant – I will upload a photo of it to the album.  As Matthew is not allowed to get too wet for a week or so (for the sake of his stitches and in case he does have a leak still in to his brain) we didn't bring our bathers with us, but it was so hot we let the kids strip down to the underwear and have a wade in the Buley Rockpools – of course Matthew slipped not once but twice and was the only one who managed to get absolutely soaked!

 

On the way back to Darwin we dropped in to the Butterfly House in Batchelor for Sophie to see the butterflies.  Well on paying the entry fee we were given a bag of carrots to which another lady noted that she didn't believe that butterflies ate carrots.  Well we soon found out who the carrots were for – the rabbits and guinea pigs in the next enclosure.  The butterflies were soon forgotten as we cuddled up to rabbits, watered the ducks, said hello to peacocks and pigs and chased crazed guinea pigs.  The money was well spent but not for the original reason.  I thought the butterflies were beautiful, and I was surprised by the number in captivity and we were even allowed to help release a few from their breeding box.  There is accommodation and a pool at the House and now Sophie would like to go and stay so she can see the honey coloured rabbit that she fell in love with.

 

On the Wednesday we had the ute booked in for a service so we dropped it off before trekking across Darwin to visit the museum via the Botanical Gardens and waterfront walk.  The museum has a great exhibition about Cyclone Tracy which was very informative, including old newspaper clippings and a recording of the sounds of the evening in a small dark room – Sophie was not too impressed with that bit, it is rather daunting to think that it is the real sounds.  There is also a plethora of marine life preserved, including fossils and dinosaur skeletons, and a feature was the stuffed giant croc by the name of Sweetheart.   We were also very fortunate to be able to have a look at the entries in this year's Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islanders Art Awards which was on show – some of the pieces are just beautiful and involve a great amount of work.

 

My interview that afternoon was successful and I even helped the manager solve a capital gains issue.  The plan was for me to start the next day, on a commission basis per return working out of a booth in Casuarina Shopping Centre.  The pay was not negotiable, the ability to negotiate your own wage was dependent on how many returns you could do.  I was still keen to give it a go as the manager guaranteed there was plenty of demand out there.  But from when I got there things went from bad to worse.  The booth was tiny and the computers constantly played up because of connection problems, personally I think if they cleaned the place up half the connection problems would be eradicated.  Then  the consultant, who I was supposed to be working with, refused to help me with anything stating that he is only paid for returns not administration. 

 

To cap it off, no phone is provided as it apparently interferes with the computer system so when I needed IT assistance I had to use my personal mobile.  My computer wouldn't recognise the printer (connection issue) so I spent a good half hour calling IT technicians on the other side of Australia, in the process wearing out my phone battery so I had to go and buy a charger to call  IT once again.  The other consultant had walked out after an hour and a half stating that there wasn't enough work for two so if I was going to stay he would leave.  I finished out the day and informed the manager she was better off keeping the other consultant as I didn't think I would stay for long before travelling on and at least he is permanent.  The only good thing is that I calculated that I should have made $200  for the days work.

 

Sure enough whilst my phone was dead our real estate agent called and left a message stating that our tennants had given notice and would be vacating in three weeks time – this was perfect timing for us.  It was the final decider of the 'should we stay or should we go' argument.  We decided that we would stay in Darwin for another week and get the kids through some more of their school work before heading south, zig-zagging our way through the red centre on the way home.

 

That night I managed to catch up with my cousin Cam Agnew from Margaret River, twice in one year is a record for us!  He came to visit us in the caravan park and share a few drinks and a relaxing chat, interrupting his hectic week of celebrations and sightseeing – as he came up to attend a wedding on the Wednesday evening.  It was great to be able to see him once again, and he was a brightener of an otherwise grim evening after that one day of work.

 

Friday we went to the Paspaley sponsored Pearl Exhibition at the Darwin Wharf.  This was a very informative presentation on the history of pearling in Australia and an insight in to the operation of Paspaley Pearls.  After our visit to Broome previously, this exhibition was very interesting.  From here we went driving around Darwin to see the new development that has been taking place and then we went on to see the WW2 Oil Storage Tunnels.  These tunnels were built to store fuel shipped in for use by Darwin and beyond, as unfortunately the oil storage tank were sitting up on the north shore at great threat from enemy invasion, and in fact were decimated by bombing raids conducted by the Japanese in 1942. 

 

The Oil Storage Tunnels took years to be built into the cliffs of Darwin, through manual labour using pick axes and crowbars, at a cost of over $6 million dollars.  They were lined with steel and then cement and were completed by the end of the war then locked up and never used.  The plan was to build at least eight but only six were ever completed.  The tunnels were opened to the public after efforts were made to allow access at the 50th anniversary of the bombing of Darwin.  Both Rob and I are amazed that we hadn't learnt more about the threat to the Australian mainland during WW2 whilst we were at school.  I was not aware until a few years ago that Darwin had even been bombed.

 

Saturday we went in to Aquascene at Doctors Gully just north of the city centre.  This is a fish feeding operation and probably pretty great for people who have not been feeding wild fish before, but to us it was not quite as exciting as feeding the Spangled Emperor at Coral Bay.  In comparison to our other experience, Aquascene is very orderly with you lining up on the edge of a purpose made cement amphitheatre.  From there we went to Crocosaurus Cove.  We had made the decision to just see Crocodylus Park based on the fact that it is the long standing, original croc park, but we were told by some neighbours in the park that we shouldn't miss Crocosaurus Cove so it was another bite in to the wallet for that.  But fortunately it was worth it, our personal opinion to anyone on a tight budget would be to see this and do the Alligator River cruise. 

 

This place is wonderful, it has a reptile centre, a turtle sanctuary, numerous crocodiles of all shapes and sizes and there's interactive opportunities where you can swim in a tank which looks like you are swimming with a croc (who is actually in the next tank separated by a 145mm sheet of Perspex) or you can dive in to a tank with crocs swimming around you by entering this tube of Perspex called the 'Cage of Death' – not my idea of a good time but apparently very popular.  We even had professional photos taken of the kids holding a crocodile – and Sophie finally held one on her own! Baby crocs can be seen by putting your head up through domes that allow you to be eyeball to eyeball with the crocs on the land and under the water – very appealing to both children and adults.

 

We then went out to East Point for a relaxing lunch and play at the playground at Lake Alexander and then headed northwards towards Nightcliffe.  I had seen a photo of the cliffs that morning in a great photo gallery next to Crocosaurus Cove and couldn't wait to get there and see the rocks myself – well I wasn't disappointed – they are amazing.  The colours and the patterns were just beautiful.  Whilst I have been travelling I have taken photos of rocks, shells, leaves and bark and cannot wait to make up a collage of all the colours and textures when we get home.

 

We have attempted to get the kids in to study mode but admit that we are not achieving too awful much in that vein.  This is another reason to go home I guess, as otherwise, if we stay away too much longer, they will be so far behind by the time they get back that they might have to stay down a year which we do not want.  So the race is now on to have them back at school in Berrigan by the start of next semester…..

 

I received an email from a work friend Sam after posting my last blog, she and another work colleague and their respective families are all currently staying at another caravan park in Darwin.  We were both so busy trying to see and do so much before we had to leave that it was looking doubtful that we would catch up yet we managed to run into each other in the Casuarina Shopping Centre which was great.  It made me envious to hear that they were leading across to Queensland on the Savannah Way – part of me wishes that we were able to go too!

 

One of the nurses in the hospital told us about this great water park, Leanyer Recreation Park, where there is this huge bucket of water that dumps on you, amongst other things.  For the first week we were unable to go as Matthew couldn't get wet but you couldn't keep us away the next week. The place is amazing, with four smallish water slides and associated other sprayers and buckets and whatnot and this one huge bucket that takes a tonne of water before it tips over.  It was just so breathtaking to stand there and watch all this water pouring out in every direction – considering its been years since we've been able to have a shower longer than five minutes!!!

 

Whilst in Darwin we also got to catch up with some old friends of Rob's sister, Peter and Deanne Shannon, who had moved up from Finley two years ago in the search for a better life.  I cant see them ever leaving now they are settled in.  Work is great, there is plenty of it and well paid, the kids have settled in with all the benefits of a capital city but with the county feel that they are used to.  After big discussions with both Peter and Deanne, we think we might have to come back to Darwin to work next year if the drought is still causing issues at home – they haven't looked back in making the decision themselves.

 

Finally it was southward bound with our first stop to be Kakadu National Park.  Peter works out at Jabiru during the week and we were hopeful we might have been able to catch him out there but that was not to be – I think he picked the best place to be that weekend.  The heat in Kakadu was extreme, even making it to the national news down south, one night we lay drowning in our sweat, before attempting sightseeing the next morning – we went to the tourist information centre and asked for suitable walks with the kids and they could only suggest a few as they said they were preventing grey nomads from going out in the heat of the day. 

 

Still, it was off to Ubirr to see an Aborignal Art Gallery, 20,000 years old.  It was magnificent, especially the pieces that had been painted on this overhang some 20 feet up a rockface.  From there we went to Cahills Crossing, we were very keen to visit this spot after seeing it on a David Attenborough documentary "Life in Cold Blood" not too long ago.  Sure enough we were right on time.  Only a few times a year the mullet swims upstream over a crossing in the East Alligator River at high tide, when spawning.  The crocodiles know this somehow and come from upstream and downstream and forget about their territory issues for a short few hours to enjoy a feeding frenzy.  It was truly a sight to behold, the crocs maintain a position in the fast flowing river using their tail whilst holding their front arms out and upwards as a net to guide the mullet to their jaws.

 

After seeing this, and knowing that all the waterfalls were dry, Rob and I decided that rather than suffer another sleepless night, we would say goodbye to Kakadu early and pack the van up and get on the road.  At 2pm, in the heat of the afternoon, we managed the fastest pack up of the van ever seen – it's a shame that the Guinness Book of Records weren't there to record the event.  That night we made our way back to Katherine and jumped straight in the pool after setting up camp, totally satisfied with our decision to cut our visit to Kakadu short.  From here we will head south and should be home within a month unless of course,we get sidetracked…..



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Broken, yes.... but not defeated

So what do you do when you are stuck in a 4.5 star holiday resort for two weeks waiting for a spring?  Well you spend a lot of time swimming, reading and socialising at the pool, considering it was 35 degrees most days – it was tough but someone had to do it and I felt up to the job.  It cost nothing and of course we are rather tight for money at this stage of the trip – trying to stretch as far as we can.  Whilst in Kununurra I did a budget analysis (once again) and worked out that at the rate we are spending (and not earning) we only have enough money to see us through to the end of September, yet Rob does not have to be at work until the end of November.  So there are two options open to us – first, to get work and stop for a while on the road or second, to travel home – either way we would be doing the same amount of travelling to the same destinations, but with the latter option we would arrive home later. 

 

We couldn't make up our minds so we thought we would see what presented itself to us and just enjoy ourselves in the meantime.  One day we picked up a NT Newspaper and looked through the employment section and a job in Darwin caught my eye… Tax consultants desperately required to work through the tax season, name your price.  I called and chatted to the manager Julie before forwarding my CV via email promising to ring when I got closer to Darwin, so it was off to Darwin for us as soon as the van was fixed.

 

In the meantime we might as well enjoy ourselves.  First on the agenda was the rodeo I mentioned last time.  It was great fun for all the family – Matthew loved the bullriders and the clowns and he just loves strutting around in his hat and declares himself a jackaroo – if he could live on a station for the rest of his life he would be very happy – riding a motorbike, rounding up cows with Brownie, our kelpie, wearing Blundstone boots just like his dads.  Now, since Pardoo Station, he also wants to learn how to wield a whip…  You can take the boy off the farm but you can't take the farm out of the boy!

 

Sophie got her fill of horses at the campdrafting at the Rodeo but was rather disappointed she was not allowed to ride one.  She has become overly keen recently to own a pony yet she has never had the opportunity to sit on the back of one.  Vanessa and Tom Rankin met up with us in Kununurra for a few days with their friends Sandy and Brian Sullivan, and Vanessa has promised Sophie she can ride her horse when we get home – so now Sophie really has something to go home to as she intends to keep Vanessa to her promise.

 

We also did the sights of Kununurra that we hadn't done on our previous trip and even some that we had - for the sake of the children.  The Durack Homestead out at Lake Argyle was one, as was the Zebra Rock Gallery where we were able to chat to the birds, feed the fish in the lake and also admire all the beautifully carved Zebra Rock – we even bought a bag of the rock so we can carve some ourselves when we get home – the kids and I can't wait.  We also managed to be fortunate enough to be able to be guinea pigs on a farm tour that was just being established and therefore didn't have to pay for the privilege.  Kaylin, from the Hoochery, also seed growers in the region, had decided to start the tours as a side line using the Hoochery as a meeting place, and why not?  At the end of your farm tour you can tour the distillery and then settle in for a couple of tastes of rum.  The tour was most informative and took us around the irrigation area to see the crops of maize, sunflowers, melons, mangos, chia, and the Indian Sandalwood Plantations.

 

A great night was spent with an old drinking buddy of Robs from his B & S days – Kath Cole.  Kath moved up years ago, nursing, and now has a husband and four children under seven and two part time jobs – how she does it all and still remains sane I do not know.  I had never met Kath before but loved the opportunity to get to know her, and the kids also enjoyed playing with each other which was a bonus.

 

At the caravan park the kids caught up with some friends they made in Broome and made some new ones, some going east and some west.  At one stage they had taken over the playground and were having such a wonderful time we had to give up the sightseeing.  We also devoted some time to some serious learning whilst we were there, with each morning devoted to study to catch up on some of the school work that had been avoided whilst travelling over the Gibb River Road and we attempted to get ahead so that there would be less required of Sophie whilst we were travelling again.

 

After the first week Rob was going a bit stir crazy so we arranged for the spring repair man to mind our van and we headed off for three days to Warmun (Turkey Creek) where we booked in to a studio unit for three nights – it was a tight squeeze but well worth it.  From here we were able to travel down to the second largest meteorite crater in the World, Wolfe Creek Crater, yes the one from the movie.  Rob and Sophie walked down in to the crater to the salt bed in the bottom whilst Matthew and I attempted to circumnavigate the crater.  We only got so far before Matt had enough and so back it was to meet Rob and Sophie coming up the precarious trail in to the crater.

 

On our way out we caught up with two couples in a predicament.  They had been going way too fast over the rough roads and went over a metre high speed bump (yes everything's bigger in the outback), lost control of their vehicle and slammed in to a tree.  The couple were lucky to get out unscathed but their new Navara was not so lucky.  The other couple, in a much older Jackaroo, tied a snatch strap between the two front tow hooks and had reverse towed the wrecked vehicle out for four kilometres when we came along – at this rate it was going to be a long trip for them.  Rob climbed under the ute and unhitched the bumper bar and pulled the front away from the fan and radiator a bit to see if it was then drivable.  Neither couple had a tool kit on board nor knew anything about vehicles – their first comment was that RAC would come and get them, which, after a call on another travellers Sat phone, they found that they were only covered for breakdowns not accidents.

 

They did have 50 litres of water on board so it was suggested that they drive slowly and keep refilling the radiator, which was cracked and couldn't be patched or plugged, and return to Halls Creek for repairs.  How they were intending to reverse tow the vehicle all the way out I do not know – poor Rob just shook his head at how poorly prepared they were for such a trip, and kept commenting for days about how anyone could consider doing the Tanami without any vehicle knowledge or a tool kit.  I had to point out that a tool kit is no good if your don't know how to use it.  These guys need to read some of Steve's blogs to understand what is required on such a trip.

 

The following day we set off early for a day in the Bungle Bungles.  This was just magical, and so much better than I thought it might be.  We had been told that the road was atrocious and the view was not worth the drive in.  Well I'm glad we didn't listen – it wasn't that bad that we couldn't have towed in our van, it is just a case of driving to the conditions, but I'm glad we didn't have to.  The view as we drove towards the rocks was just breathtaking and then to walk amongst them, looking at the beehive like structures and the colours of the bands of rock, and the height of the structures was captivating. 

 

It took me such a long time to walk in to Cathedral Gorge as I spent my whole time looking up and left and right and oohing and ahing as I stumbled along, clicking away photos as I went, and then I got inside and looked up at the great expanse above me – what can I say – it was mesmerising.  I know I'm wafting on but I think this is one of those places that everyone should visit before they die.  After lunch we visited Echidna Chasm which is also amazing and so vastly different to what we had seen in the morning making the day even more memorable.  The walls here are made of large pebbles that are cemented in by other sedimentary rock, and the effect is spectacular and nothing like I had anticipated.  Sophie called it her rock gallery and started naming rocks left right and centre.  We were thankful it was a National Park as I think she would have carted a good many out with her had she been allowed!

 

That night as we sat down to dinner on the veranda of our unit we noted that we had previously had a cat come to visit us during dinner, then a dog, Matthew then stated that wouldn't it be great if a bull came along, within minutes a bull walked through the carpark and over to our ute, gave it a good sniff, checked us out and proceeded to walk through the petrol station.  There were laughs all round even from the people on the next veranda that had heard our previous conversation.  All in a day in the outback!

 

It was back to Kununurra then to collect our springs, have them fitted and then the next day head off to Katherine.  The drive took a lot longer than it did the last time.  Previously there was no speed limit in the Northern Territory, so on our first fuel stop over the border we asked what was the suggested speed for the road to which the girl responded that the locals do 180.  Well on that stretch we didn't do 180 (not to say we didn't elsewhere) but we certainly went a lot faster than we did this time pulling the van.  When you see a sign saying the speed limit is 130 and you know that you wouldn't ever choose to exceed 110 towing the van, it is very disappointing for a lead foot like myself.  So now it was goodbye Western Australia – hello Northern Territory.  Just changing the clocks to central time made us feel like we were getting closer to home. 

 

On our first day in Katherine we had a look around town then in the afternoon we ventured south to Cutta Cutta Caves.  Here we were taken on a guided tour through the cave, where the history of the caves and the shapes were all explained to us.  The stalactites here are just beautiful but it is amazing to witness the damage that is done by mother nature with flooding and earthquakes.  Some of the stalactites were also unfortunately used by soldiers during WW2 as shooting practice, now some 80 years later some have managed to regrow up to five centimetres.  Lorraine our tour guide showed us shapes that had been named Pluto, which looked like the Disney dog holding a bone in his jaw, the Wiggles Big Red Car, and an upside down dragon.  We also go to see a some frogs who have become stuck in the cave and a tree snake who feeds on bats in the cave.

 

The next day we visited Nitmiluk National Park (Katherine Gorge) to the east.  We hired two canoes to see the first two gorges on the river rather than tackling a strenuous walks in the heat, and found this to be a wonderful and different way to see gorges for us, and most peaceful.  We went crocodile spotting again, for freshies, but didn't manage to see one – not that they probably weren't there, we just didn't see them.  The one thing that irked me was the large steel croc cage in the water, used to catch salties – I had been told there were no salties but afterwards they said they have the cage there to catch one if it somehow gets in…. had I known that was a possibility I might have chosen a bigger boat!

 

That afternoon we made a visit to Edith Falls to the north of Katherine, which after seeing spectacular falls across the Gibb River Road and seeing photos of those in Kakadu and Litchfield National Parks to come, this was a bit of a letdown.  The pool of water, more like a lake, looked very inviting but was icy cold so we chose not to venture in. 

 

In Katherine we visited the hot springs where the children tried to sit on a ledge of a waterfall before being pushed off by the force of the water in to the next pool where they were swirled around and under the waterfall over and over with neither making a noise.  There were people everywhere and no-one noticed their predicament, meanwhile Rob and I were still up top trying to make our way to them as fast as possible through a number of people that just couldn't seem to understand that our children were drowning before our eyes.  Rob jumped over one boy's head in to the next pool whilst I jumped in from the side over a bunch of kids clinging to the ladder.  It was over in a matter of a minute but I think a big lesson was learned by the kids, and their parents!



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The Gibb River Road

The excitement increased.  This is what we had been planning for.   Wednesday saw us head to Derby for the night.  My aunt and uncle, Barb and Roger Plant worked here for the Royal Flying Doctors Service around 25 years ago or so and so I was keen to have a good look around.  I am sure the place has changed quite a bit since they were here, but the tides have not.  Derby has some of the most extreme tides in the world – as far as I am aware they are second only to a place on the North American continent (differing stories are Maine and Canada), either way they are certainly something to behold.  We arrived at lunchtime and enquired about tide times as we checked in – to which we were told to drop the van and get straight down to the jetty as it was currently low tide then to come back, set up the van and head back in time for sunset to see high tide.  So we drove out on to the jetty and walked around looking down twelve metres below us to the water which still looked very deep and appeared to be moving rather rapidly.  We watched for a while then drove back to the caravan park, set up, caught up with Mr Whippy for an ice cream – unbelievably he visits the park every afternoon – then visited the tourist information centre before heading back to the jetty for the evening.

 

By the time we got back to the jetty it was high tide and the water was only a metre or so below the jetty, the tidal flats that were stark when we first arrived were now gone.  Rob spoke to one fisherman/tourist who said he decided to look for mudcrabs and only just made it back to dry land by running through knee high water it came in so rapidly.  At the time he was not aware of the resident 4 metre saltie living amongst the mangroves.  The water rose ten metres in four hours which is rather amazing.  The sunset was beautiful, yes I know I'm rambling about another sunset.  But, captured over the water from the jetty, it was a really deep red which was caused by the small bushfires burning on the lower Dampier Peninsular in the distance – Sophie was pretty proud of herself as she came up with the saying Staircase to the Sun as the reflection across the water was magical.

 

The next morning it was one final check and we headed off towards the Gibb River Road with much excitement.  On our previous trip around Western Australia we had begrudgingly driven around via Fitzroy Crossing but there was no way we were going to miss it again.  By mid morning we had reached Tunnel Creek for our first "GRR experience".  This was probably the highlight of the week for Matthew and something I am sure he will remember for years to come.  Rob was a bit concerned about going in to the tunnel as he had heard that the water was cold and waist deep and that there were freshwater crocs and eels - and of course that it is pitch black.  I convinced him to at least have a look.  Matthew and I set off at a great pace both very excited and Rob and Sophie followed hesitantly.  I threw myself full gusto at the first water that we came to, totally unnecessarily, whilst a queue of people nervously climbed over this huge 12 foot chunk of rock.  I came out the other side whilst they were all still discussing their next foothold and Matthew impatiently sneaked past to join me.  The deepest pool of water in the whole tunnel was where I waded around the rock and it only just made it to my knees.  Nor did we sight any crocs, eels, ghost bats or fruitbats as listed on the noticeboard, we fortunately only saw some small fish.

 

So why was it so good?  Well, where do I begin?  You walk in along the tunnel following the creek, it is pitch black apart from the torchlight, the walls are spectacular to behold and the ceiling comes down very low in some places, and then rises to small ampitheatres in other areas, with stalactites in amazing formations lowering from the ceiling.  Half way along there is an opening where the tunnel has collapsed in and there are roots from trees above twisting around themselves and draping down from the ceiling to the floor.  Just when you think it is all over you turn around and do it all in reverse witnessing it all from a different direction.  Our next destination was Windjana Gorge just up the road – with the most amazing colours in the rock walls.  This Gorge is one of the oldest fossilised rock formations on the planet with evidence of a barrier reef that existed before man….  So what do you do in this situation but go fossil hunting.  We only managed to find two and no matter how many people we coerced to assist us we could not find any others.  The other main attraction was the sight of freshwater crocs sunning themselves on the banks of the river beside the path.  We counted around 30 before we stopped and even managed to witness one fishing.

 

That day we drove on over the corrugations and numerous creek crossings to a roadside stop on the northern side of Same Creek, all ready to sit around a campfire and have a relaxing evening.  Unfortunately when we opened up the van it was all wet inside and smelt strange.  After emptying out the pantry cupboard we found the culprit, a previously unopened bottle of cordial we had bought months ago had become victim to the corrugations.  It had been sitting against the battery charger, and obviously over time, had slowly rubbed a hole in the side letting out all the contents – charming!

 

The next day it was on to Galvan's Gorge around 25 kilometres down the road.  This was a very easy and pretty walk to an oasis just off the main road.  Had it not been so early in the day the pool at the bottom of the waterfall would have been very inviting, instead after some exploring it was back in to the ute to head to our next destination, Manning Gorge another 25 kilometres along – This was a fantastic experience.  First, at 10am we headed from the carpark down to the river where we placed all our belongings in a polystyrene box and I swam it across to the other side.  The kids used some boogie boards which are provided for less competent swimmers and one man who couldn't swim even managed to hitch a lift across on a inflated tyre.  On the other side of the river the adventure continued with a walk for over an hour across open plains and rocky hills to reach the final destination.  A beautiful chilly waterfall and a lovely deep pool, with cascading smaller pools downstream, greeted us at the end.  After a fairly arduous walk in the heat this was well worth it.  The kids played together exploring the rocks and swimming on another inflated tyre, Rob climbed to the very top of the waterfall and I swam out to the bottom to experience the force of the waterfall as it hit the pool.  The water was more than refreshing, it was heart-stopping icy, which was very inviting after the heated walk in.  Of course then we had to walk back out again, up over the towering mountains (or so they now seemed) across the plain and back to the refreshing river where we cooled off for a while before getting ready to drive on.

 

Our home for the night was made of the banks of Barnett River Gorge No. 3, but not before we refuelled at the Mt Barnett Roadhouse where Diesel cost us 242.9 cents per litre!  In total we travelled around 75 kilometres that day.  I was grateful to open up the van and find it all still nice and clean after my clean up the day before.  This night we had our marshmallows around the fire which the children had been keenly waiting for.

 

Day three on the Gibb River Road was pretty tame and uneventful.  We drove past the turnoff to Kalumburu and Mitchell Falls longingly, and reminded ourselves that we can't do everything, - the road is too difficult to traverse with a trailer and we don't have the equipment to live without the van.  It's a long slow bumpy drive prone to causing vehicular damage - I think we were convinced.  We have since heard that there are numerous vehicles of all shapes and sizes sitting at Drysdale Station, on the road to Mitchell Falls and Kalumburu Mission, awaiting parts such as springs, axles, tyres and whatnot, so we are thankful we didn't head north – with or without the van – then again the grey nomad we heard this from successfully took a regular 20ft caravan in – he just drove very slowly.

 

The eastern half of the Gibb River Road does not have many deviations, the Gorges are mainly focussed in the first 300 kms out of Derby and the first 30kms on from the east.  We gritted our teeth across the corrugations, numerous floodways and dips and through many creek crossings, past ever changing scenery to finally reach the Pentecost River that afternoon.  When we arrived we set forth to duct-taped up the door on the van before crossing as we had been informed that the water was 60cms deep, and I only cleaned the van two days ago – in we went to the Kimberley Car Wash with cheers from the two in the backseat.  On our last trip we had stayed at El Questro and this time we were looking forward to checking out Home Valley Station, unfortunately at present it is closed so it was off to El Questro again. 

 

This was a great decision, we camped under some palm trees on the banks of the Pentecost River overlooking a sandy beach and lit ourselves a fire before contemplating the activities provided on the 400,000 hectare property.  First on the agenda the next morning was a visit to Zebedee Springs thermal pools.  Of all that we saw last visit this was the only place we revisited, and we would do it twice whilst we were there this time as we all loved it.  After agreeing that we were all gorged out and really weren't interested in hiking in the heat, that afternoon it was off exploring some of the roughest 4 wheel drive tracks I have ever been on, in the name of crocodile spotting.  We tackled Explosion Gorge, Brancos Lookout, Pigeon Hole, and then drove to Chamberlain Gorge on our way back to camp (no crocodiles spotted mind you).  The next day, after again visiting Zebedee Springs, we headed out the gate to Tier Gorge and Matteo Rock before circumnavigating Cockburn Range to the north.  This was some great driving and the scenery was ever changing.  One of the highlights of this day was seeing a 19 metre boab tree and then going boab nut hunting - with Matthew netting the largest intact nut.

 

After three very enjoyable nights at El Questro it was back onto the Gibb River Road one last time to Kununurra where we commented on how lucky we were to not have encountered any problems.  A neighbour at ELQ had two punctures in 3 kilometres and previously we saw a trailer on the side of the road with a broken axle.  At the entrance to the GRR we pulled in between the two signs with the ute and took a photo of Rob and the kids up on top of one of the signs then went to drive through to find that the van was veering to the left, it was only then that we realised that we had broken a spring – probably caused by fatigue over the past eight years and exacerbated by the corrugations and a few potholes.  We limped the 70 kilometres in to Kununurra and booked in to the beautiful Ivanhoe Village Caravan Resort for a week, having an inkling that it may take a while to get a new spring.  The first day we visited and called anywhere and everywhere possible in Kununurra and Perth to source a new spring before having to call Goldstream in Melbourne first thing the next morning.  By the end of the day we had two springs ordered and a set delivery time two weeks after breaking the spring. 

 

The temperature is hot, the pool is cool, there is a playground for the kids, and a rodeo on this weekend – what better place to be with a breakdown? 



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From the Pilbara to the Kimberley

Another month is almost over and we are in Derby, about to set forth across the Gibb River Road so I thought I would provide an update before we go offline again.  So where did I leave you – ah yes, from the beautiful Jasper rock formations at Marble Bar, we drove to Port Hedland, unsuccessful sourcing a tyre, before driving on to Indee Station.  We had over two weeks to fill before we were due in Broome as we had booked ahead four months in advance to catch the Staircase to the Moon (more on that later).  Indee Station was recommended to us by our neighbours out at Karajini and the kids loved it, just as he predicted.  There was a very young foal wandering through the camp with her mother, sometimes sleeping under the tree right outside our van.  There were two baby calves at the homestead and each night there is a happy hour where the lovely hosts, Colin and Betty, provide nibblies as long as you provide your own drink.  It is a great opportunity to get to know your fellow travellers and find out about other interesting destinations along the route.  The favourite part of the visit for the kids was playing with a new mate Curtis in the rubbish dump.  Here they found all sorts of interesting things before we realised to where they had wandered.  For me, the favourite was the visit to Red Rock, a lovely formation a short drive from the homestead, where you can see some Aboriginal Rock Art and a short drive on from there is the river, perfect for a refreshing dip off the rocks – or you can just fall in like Rob did!

 

From Indee Station it was back to Port Hedland for a night in an attempt to find ourselves a handle for our jockey wheel or a new one that would fit our drawbar as we also broke that on the rough road from Newman to Marble Bar.  Not possible in that place – we spent two days driving from Port Hedland to South Hedland to Wedgefield and back around again – close to 100 kms to no avail.  Suffice to say had we not had to do this we probably would never have seen the wheelbarrow made from a tray of a mine haul truck – that made Matthew's day.  Whilst here, we also arranged to visit the School of the Air, where we were invited to join a music class.  As it was the last day of term, only two boys were present for the class which was conducted over the internet, Kristopher from Karajini way and Alex from 80 Mile Beach.  It was great to watch the interaction between these young children and their teacher over the internet, especially since Sophie is studying through the Hay School of the Air via correspondence.

 

From Port Hedland it was on to Pardoo Station on recommendation from new friends met at Indee Station.  We had recently read about this station in a Magazine, the article didn't do much for us, but the place had a lot more going for it than we had been led to assume.  We booked in for a night and whilst sitting around the campfire we met Ron who hails from not too far from us.   Ron is a semi permanent fixture at Pardoo considering he and his wife Jacki have been coming up for eight years when Graham and Judith have only owned it for three.  Whilst here Ron takes care of the sprinklers and the pool and does his fair share of fishing and mudcrabbing – and he knows all the best spots.  He was generous enough to offer to take us out with him the next day. 

 

The next morning we were woken by the sound of cattle being rounded up in the yards nearby so out Rob went to have a look and ended up helping out with loading a roadtrain.  By the end he had met the owner, Graham, and had been offered the chance to join a muster that week.  So with two great offers before us we figured this was as good a place as any to while away a week before heading to Broome, after all it is only 600kms from Port Hedland to Broome and last time we did this in six hours…  That afternoon Rob went fishing with Ron and it turned out to be his best day of the season.  Rob said it was amazing to watch as each fisherman hauled in their lines like dominoes as a school of fish swam along the coastline.  Unfortunately the muster was not as interesting – it was delayed due to the truck being down south and then the helicopter wasn't available, so when it was finally done late in the week, it was on a much smaller scale than anticipated and only in the 15km radius of the homestead.  Matthew was still very proud of his dad especially when all the dust was stirred up by the cattle and the bull buggies coming in to the yard and even moreso when his Dad showed him how a whip works.  Matthew had now identified half his Hot Wheels as bull buggies and wants to grow up to be a stockman. 

 

Cattle and fishing are not the only features of Pardoo Station.  There is a store which stocks basic necessities such as bread, ice and veges as well as a liquor licence and merchandise – unfortunately no meat is available as it is assumed you will catch your own fish or muddies.  There is also a cool refreshing pool to enjoy on the hot days which came in handy with two young children overheating.  There is a mud map available from the store which will show you where to get to either of the creeks running through the property, the two beaches, the island and the (small) mountain.  The beach is also only 15kms from the homestead and on our way down one day we noticed that the ground was moving ahead of us.  We pulled up and got out and found hundreds of large hermit crabs making their way over the sand-dunes and across the road before us.  I had to walk out front of the ute and herd the crabs off the road for about 20 metres (a long way for a hermit crab!) as we didn't want to run over any of them.   The kids had a great time following them and Sophie even found a naked one – yes, one had discarded his old shell and was obviously in the process of finding himself a new shell when we interrupted him.  We couldn't find him an empty shell nearby so we left him to go on his way.  The rocks at Pardoo are also most interesting, the kids called them wine racks as they had holes in them that looked just the right size to fit a wine bottle in, we believe it is volcanic remains but this hasn't been clarified for us – either way  the formations were great for climbing over and exploring. 

 

Next destination was 80 Mile Beach,  the one downside here is they don't recommend swimming in the ocean as the beach is not patrolled, yet there is no pool.  Considering that we are in the tropics I would have thought there would at least be one or the other.  We arrived on the Saturday in time for a concert being conducted by the Grey Nomads.  There were acts present from across Australia and it was great to sit back with a cool drink and join the other 400 in the crowd to support the Royal Flying Doctors.  The following morning there were markets on with products on show by residents of the park, in fact Rob and I weighed up having a stall ourselves to get rid of some of our excess but instead put up a sign in the toilets which worked a treat.  The beach here just fades in to the distance, we drove to the west to a rocky outcrop and had an explore before we turned around and drove east for miles and miles and in the end decided to turn around – the end still could not be seen on the horizon.  The sunset on the beach was magnificent and the shells were just beautiful and abundant.  Each day we would fill a shopping bag and take it back to camp, wash the contents, pick out the best, then return the rest.  Some of the ladies had fashioned birds out of the shells by gluing them together so this got me thinking.  In no time I had made a bird like theirs, then a turtle, a butterfly, a dragonfly and a very pregnant sea horse – using my imagination and a tube of Tarzan Grip.  We had been very keen to get to 80 Mile Beach to meet Alex from our School of the Air visit.  The kids spent a whole morning getting to know him better and looking around his classroom and playing with his toys whilst I had a great chat with his mum. 

 

Finally, on Tuesday, it was on to Broome, still four days early.  We figured we would come in to town to restock, book a site up north on the Dampier Peninsular for the four nights before returning to Broome on the Saturday.  On arrival at the Tourist Information Centre we were to find that everything up north was booked out, and back in Broome even the overflow accommodation at the PCYC was full and they estimated that the Pistol Club would fill shortly thereafter.  As we had a booking for later in the week I thought I would give Palm Grove Caravan Park a call to see if we could get any sort of site, if not for that night but the other three, fortunate that I called as they had just been notified of a cancellation and could fit us in that night and for two nights thereafter if we could find one more nights accommodation before returning to them as planned.  They gave us the site, as we already had a booking, whilst they were turning people away at the driveway.  A call to Middle Lagoon halfway up the Dampier Peninsular saw us confirm our accommodation there for the Friday night.   

 

As soon as we were settled in we called Rob's Uncle and Aunt, Jim and Phyl Escott, who live in Broome for the winter, and managed to catch up with them the next morning for a very relaxing and enjoyable morning tea.  Matthew just loved Aunty Phyl's scones which is a real compliment as he is the fussiest eater – he managed to polish off three!  We were also fortunate to catch up with the sister of our best man, Vanessa Rankin, and her husband Tom, who had travelled up via the Tanami Track to go on a cruise for a week before tackling the Gibb River Road about a week behind us.  We joined Tom and Vanessa, and Jim and Phyl down on Cable Beach for a lovely dinner whilst the sun set over the waves.  It was a magnificent sight that I doubt I would ever tire of. 

 

On the Friday we drove north to Middle Lagoon, about 20kms out of Broome you hit some of the worst conditions we have driven – there's bulldust, corrugations, dips and rises and so forth for around 100kms, then the moment you reach the Aboriginal communities the road becomes bitumen again and it's a breeze all the way to the tip a further 150kms.  We turned off though after 30kms to Middle Lagoon, and it was back on the dirt for another 30kms to our home for the night on the Ridge.  What a view, here we were parked on the edge of the world with the waves lapping at the beach below us.  We set up camp then headed straight up north to the tip.  One Arm Point is a community just north of Cape Levecque, the best view is of the 10 meter tides rushing past the point, there are small islands and as the tide drops the water cannot pass through fast enough causing huge currents and rapids, its awe inspiring to watch.  Just beside this point is a hatchery where you can see the biggest Barramundi in captivity staring back at you.  There are also turtles, clownfish, trochas shells, sea anemones and our old friends the spangled emporers.  One of the helpers there was kind enough to catch a turtle for us to pat and then Barry, who runs the hatchery, created some beautiful work in polishing up a Trochas Shell for us to take home, also throwing a few rejects to the kids.  It was really interesting looking at the before and after of the shell, they way he sanded back more in some places to reveal the pearl shell underneath and very cleverly polished some original shell for effect.  We really loved the experience and were so glad we found this out of the way place.

 

That night I captured my favourite sunset to date, out on the edge of the ridge, with a pandanus palm in the picture.  It was just magical – the joys of a digital camera is that I stood there for almost half an hour and just took photo after photo from different angles, the hardest bit is deciding which one to keep – I posted one of my five favourites on the album.  When we arrived at Middle Lagoon the tide was in yet when we returned from One Arm Point the tide had fallen making the scene remarkably different.  During the morning the next day we were able to watch again as the tide came in, covering pools, rocky outcrops and huge expanses of beach coming in 10 metres in depth.  I can't wait now to see what it looks like in Derby when we see it later this week.

 

Saturday night finally arrived and it was time to see the Staircase to the Moon.  Tom and Vanessa agreed to join us at the Mangroves Hotel as I had heard that it was the best place with which to view the spectacle.  The Staircase to the Moon appears when the full moon rises and the reflection is caught in mudflats of the very low tides creating the image of steps. Vanessa had the forethought to book ahead and managed to capture us the prime spot for the evening for which I am eternally grateful to her.  From our prime position on the deck we were able to peer out over the balustrade, across the horizon.  The lights were dimmed and a didgeridoo started playing in the background to increase the effect – it was worth the wait.  I had been so concerned that we had prolonged arriving in Broome to see this, costing us valuable money and time, and that I would live to regret it.  Alas no, I would be willing to do it all again!  I took fifty photos trying to capture what we were seeing but I just couldn't capture it well, no matter how hard I tried – you really have to see it.  The didgeridoo ensemble that played afterwards was also masterful, the pair were very talented and kept us entertained long after the moon had risen.  It was the perfect way to cap off a fantastic week.

                                                                                                                     

Our next destination was the Malcolm Douglas Crocodile Park just down the road from our campsite.  We had tried to visit the new wilderness park earlier that week, the brochure stated it was open from 10am to 5pm so we drove out the 17kms at 10am to find that it wouldn't be open until 2pm - we were not amused!  Still the older Crocodile Park was great.  John our tour guide took us around the pens and introduced us to some of the biggest and meanest crocs you will ever see, feeding them chickens for our amusement.  I managed to get up close to one and caught him eyeing me off, John then asked me to step back just before the croc bit into the fence.  We were even treated to the opportunity to each hold a small croc.  Matthew, Rob and I were lined up but Sophie could not be persuaded.  The crocs are bred for their skins and meat and are treated very well to ensure they are of the best quality – he was very soft.  Steve Irwin would be disgusted with us I'm sure!   Rob and I were keen to take the kids to a Croc farm as for the next stage of the trip we will be in the wild with them in their natural habitat and the kids need to be aware of the dangers – we really hope that this education helps.

 

On our last day in Broome we posted off a heap more unnecessary items to my mother (now that's one lucky woman!), did all the exciting stuff like the washing and the groceries to prepare for the GRR and then had a most relaxing afternoon in the company, one last time, of Jim and Phyl.  We had a beautiful lunch but the highlight for the children was making scones with their surrogate grandmother – I think it just made them miss their grandparents more.  I'll be sorry to be leaving Broome but Rob has his eyes set on home now, it's only a couple of months away and there's still so much to do.  Until next time – take care.



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Heading North in WA - at last!

After spending one more week in Esperance there were big farewells to the Agnews and all the kids and teachers at Esperance Primary that Sophie and Matthew had become close to over the four month stay.  Matthew said big goodbyes to all his friends and his four wonderful teachers – The Mrs Rees, Coyle, Shipard and Bottrell – who will all be sadly missed.  Sophie's teacher Mrs McGovern had been a fantastic role model for Sophie during our time there and had performed miracles with her, but unfortunately was off sick during the first week of June although this did not prevent her from calling to say goodbye and wish Soph well – it was just lovely and very much appreciated.

 

So on Saturday 7th June we hit the road for the next stage of our adventure, Sophie was so excited to once again be home schooled that she pulled out her folder before we had exited the caravan park.  (I thank Mrs McGovern once again for her influence).  We travelled to Wave Rock and the Hippos Yawn at Hyden where the kids had a great time "surfing the rock" – the photos are on the album page.  That night we stayed at Tressies Caravan Park and Museum at Kalgarin, where Matthew wanted to build himself a tractor out of all the spare parts.  On Sunday it was onwards to Perth via Kulin's Tin Horse Highway, my favourites are on the album page – especially the Charlton Horseton epic Ben Horse.

 

Monday we were in a very wet and rainy Perth to have the caravan upgraded – a new tap installed and a fan in the fridge to cope with higher ambient temperatures.  Whilst there we searched for two new tyres for the ute, only managing to get ourselves one – Western Australia is not big on having stock sitting round we have found – everything seems to be two weeks away….  Somehoy we managed to get one tyre at a reduced price since they didn't want it.  That afternoon we drove towards our next destination past Sandstone.  We managed to make it to a roadside stop south of Paynes Find called Mt Gordon.  The next day we moved on to Lake Mason near Sandstone, a former pastoral lease that has been taken over by the DEC.  Rob knew the property in the 80's when it was a sheep station and was interested to revisit the place – I think I am glad I had not seen it before, the place is dilapidated and condemned and nothing like its former self.

 

Wednesday we drove towards Monkey Mia making it as far as Murchison Roadhouse to stay the night.  With the rains of the previous week the Butchers Track had only just been reopened.  We were advised to drive straight through any puddles, don't slow or swerve so that's exactly what I did.  By the time we reached Denham we were thickly coated in mud!  With our cross country adventures of the past few days I made the comment to Rob that you really know you're away from civilisation when there are no tyre tracks only animal tracks on the dirt roads.

 

At Denham we caught up with the Osbornes, a family we met in Esperance.  We visited Denham and Monkey Mia Resort on our last WA trip and were sorely disappointed at not being allowed near the dolphins.  Sophie was not to be deterred and was very keen to revisit so we found ourselves down at the water front at Monkey Mia early the next morning and this time it was a wonderful experience.  No sooner had we arrived than Matthew was chosen to feed the dolphins and took Sophie in with him, then during the next feeding Sophie was chosen to feed and so I tagged along with her.  We spent hours wading in the water with the dolphins playing at our feet, they were in no hurry to leave the beach and were quite playful.  I estimate I took over a hundred photos with most having to be deleted as I only had room for the best 30 on my camera.  Whilst in Denham Rob took the kids 4 wheel driving with the Osbornes out to Steep Point, the most westerly point of the Australian mainland whilst I stayed at the van rather unwell (to say the least). 

  

From Denham we drove to Bayview Coral Bay Holiday Park, via Carnarvon for a bank, grocery and fuel stock up and windscreen repair.  We hadn't planned to visit Coral Bay having booked ahead to go to Exmouth, but just before we left Esperance we were convinced by a couple that we couldn't miss it - I now tell everyone the same.  We booked in for a night and within an hour had changed that to a week, taking advantage of a free night deal.  The playground was filled with other home schooled kids and our kids were not seen until dark that first night.  The beach is only 50 metres from the park and the reef is just past the beach.  Every day at 3.30pm they feed Spangled Emperor from the beach.  These fish are huge!  They have been fed here for over forty years and have been protected for much of that time, they now reach the unnatural size of up to 45cms and will come right up to you at the beach.  Whilst snorkelling I had them following me as I swam which was at first unsettling but then quite amusing.

 

Whilst here, we went on a 4 wheeler adventure along the beaches and dunes, stopping at two great snorkelling sites.  At the first I was a bit too daring and was washed up on some coral ripping up my stomach a bit.  At the second, in a protected bay, I had a very close encounter with a huge stingray.  After Steve Irwin I treat these animals with the utmost of respect and was a tad scared (teeth chatteringly so) considering he was as long as me and had nearly beached himself trying to get away from me and at this time I still hadn't seen him.  I came in beside him, was warned by some fellow riders, and backed away rapidly…   Matt, our guide, had no idea he was there and witnessed the barb being pushed up beside him – I think it aged him a little!

 

Two days later we went on a glass bottom boat out to the Turtle Sanctuary.  Matthew has been too fearful to re-enter the water after his mother's close encounter with the ray so this was my way of showing them the beauty under the surface.  I had been surprised to find that the reef is not colourful like the Great Barrier Reef, it is mainly brown with some pink and blue tinges, it is the fish and other sealife that are so magnificent.  We were able to observe turtles frolicking around the boat and watch as they swam under the boat, Sophie saw a stingray and Matthew loved the striking black sea slugs.  We saw huge blue starfish and hundreds of varieties of  fish.  The boat allows for two snorkels and one in an area where turtles are known to visit.  Whilst there I managed to swim with a green turtle which was just magnificent – he just kept turning his head to look at me as I swam by.  I also saw a very shy reef shark, a slithering sea snake, as well as some huge colourful parrot fish and spotted sweetlips and numerous gorgeous little fish, including the whole cast from finding Nemo!  The ships captain Damo had a great sense of humour and started throwing fish food at me whilst I was swimming – I was inundated by fish, nipping at my head and swimming all over me – a really strange sensation.  The rest of the week was spent exploring the shore line, feeding the fish, playing on the beach (including beach cricket), meeting new friends and catching up with old ones, and of course, snorkelling.  My last snorkel I saw another twelve stingrays, and so that was it, I was out of there... 

 

Onwards to Exmouth we went, to the Lighthouse Caravan Park, where we caught up with our neighbours from Coral Bay, John and Jenny Bolt from Rockhampton.  We drove down to the Marine Park as far as Yardie Creek and had a little swim at Turquoise Bay as we have often read about it at bedtime in the great children's book by Alison Lester "Are we there yet?".  This book, I must say, is a must for every family travelling Australia.  We also visited the visitors centre where we saw two newly orphaned joeys and then on to Lakeside for more swimming.  By far Coral Bay was a better destination for us personally with more protected waters and less steep beaches.  We also visited the Mildura Wreck and found a reef shark washed up on the shore, its tail had been eaten off, obviously by another shark.  Whilst there we saw turtles bobbing in the waves and some amazing shells and coral washed up on the shore.

 

 Next destination was Tom Price where we saw the Osbornes and Bolts again.  We went on a tour of the Iron Ore Mine, to the top of Mt Nameless and to Hammersley Gorge.  The folding and colour in the rock was more than I could have imagined and looks so much more remarkable than any photo I have ever seen.  We spent hours just looking at it and photographing it from all different angles.  The children became junior geologists.  From Tom Price we drove out for a few nights at Karajini National Park, staying at the DEC run Dales Gorge campsite.  We used this as a base to see much more of the park including Weano Gorge, Joffre Gorge and Falls and Fortescue Falls.  On the Sunday we had rain at camp – meaning lots and lots of red mud!  The kids had a field day building lakes and dams whilst I had fun harvesting water along with the neighbours.  I managed to source enough for us all to have a great shower through tilting the awning down, the neighbours managed to get themselves thirty litres!

 

Newman was the next stop where Rob tried unsuccessfully to contact a mate from home working here Fly in – Fly out for BHP.  Our major priority was lots and lots of washing, everything was stained rust red!  A quick look around town and we managed to find another tyre which was great.  The old one, which still has around 10,000kms in it, was then strapped to the bike rack to accompany us across the Gibb River Road as our second spare and it was off to Marble Bar the hottest town in Australia.  An hour out of Newman we blew a tyre, a piece of steel had penetrated one of our newer tyres so it was back on with the spare at Nullargine and onwards to Marble Bar.  The road had been badly damaged by recent flooding rains and at some stage something must have been thrown up under the van with enough force to sever the brakes.  You only ever find these things out when you need to stop don't you?  Well, I didn't stop, I just skidded down into the washed out floodway dip and then literally flew out the other side, pushed by a tonne and a half of trailer.  We now call ourselves Escott Airways and make jokes about life vests being under our seats and observing the non smoking sign, just thankful that it wasn't a worse outcome.  Rob repaired the brakes and we enjoyed a few drinks at the iconic Ironclad Bar.  The next day we visited the Jasper Bar on our way to Port Hedland to source another tyre to no avail.  And so the journey continues…



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Our final month in Esperance

The computer, that has been causing me no end of grief since it was purchased at Christmas time, finally failed last month and I have had to resurrect it twice to see if I can salvage it – I have spent so much time on the phone to Compaq that I could have bought another with the cost of the calls.  This meant that I was unable to write an update earlier as I had intended.  My theory was that I would write less but more often.  Instead here is another monster instalment for you to peruse - May.  As we type I can happily say we are on the road again, experiencing our big adventure.  So how did May pan out? 

 

The first weekend of the month the family rode to Esperance Museum along the waterfront.  The gears on my bike seized and so my Mr Fixit took to mending it on the bike path and sent us on ahead, Matt on his bike and Sophie sitting up behind me playing Princess in the kiddie seat.  In mending the bike Rob ended up with grease over his hands and so tried to wash some off on the beach but was caught by a wave and ended up with boots full of water!  The museum was great and kept the kids amused for some time – there is a steam locomotive and carriages housed within the shed and some pieces of skylab that fell to the ground in the region amongst other interesting features.

 

On Sunday Rob set about making us some sidesteps for the ute as Matt has been finding it difficult to get in to the back seat, considering the floor sits mid chest on him I can understand his point of view.  A friend of the Agnews' is rather handy and was able to provide Rob with the use of his shed and tools as well as some guidance and advice and two very helpful hands – we are indebted to Malcolm for all his assistance.

 

For Mothers' Day weekend we went kayaking with the Marg and Rob on the Windabout Lakes on the Saturday which was most enjoyable and peaceful, then we took the kayaks to the beach near the port and had a paddle there amongst the huge Cape class ships.

 

On Sunday we celebrated Mothers' Day with a tour of the Esperance Port provided by the local Apex Club.  The tour is inexpensive yet the guides are very knowledgeable of not only the history and current activities of the Port but of the whole Esperance district.  After the Port tour we visited the Aquarium.  We had been holding back on this outing, saving it for a rainy day, but with only three weekends to go we felt that the time had come regardless.  We have been blessed with beautiful weather whilst we have been here, with the children still wearing summer uniforms to school and the average temperature each day still exceeding 20 degrees.

 

As previously noted in my last instalment we have had rain, but it has all fallen overnight to date and not much has made it far from the coast, so unfortunately the farmlands are still waiting for rain.  The seeding (sowing) that we were here to do was therefore stalled.  So we took off sightseeing for a week and headed north to Kalgoorlie/Boulder.  We checked in to the Kalgoorlie Accommodation Village and instantly noted the absence of any greenery – they are trying valiantly to grow trees and even have a grass courtyard but it is obvious that this is a place that rarely receives rainfall.

 

Our first day was spent touring Boulder and all its sights including the Metropole Hotel which has a Perspex floor from which you can see down into an old mine.  The Boulder Town Hall and the amazing Goatcher Curtain, a scene of the Bay of Naples painted by Phillip Goatcher over a century ago and lovingly restored by Boulder, now one of the only still in existence.  We then visited the Royal Flying Doctors Base, our third, but unfortunately their one plane was on an emergency flight.  To finish off the day we went to the Super Pit lookout in time to see them perform a detonation.  It's amazing to watch all the explosives go off and see the ground breaking up and flying through the air.  The explosives are six metres long and set in holes drilled 10 metres deep into the stone.  When the explosive is detonated the ground rises up 20 metres in the air like a wave.  I managed to capture shot after shot showing the rock exploding in the air but not one at that moment showing the detonation going off.  Afterwards it was pointed out to me that I could have filmed the whole thing on my camera – hindsight is a great thing huh? 

 

Thursday saw us travelling north for a day trip past old mine towns, and sites still being excavated, to Menzies and out to Lake Ballard.  I was really keen to visit this Salt Lake after seeing photos of it in numerous tourist brochures for the past six months.  The feature of the lake is 51 statues scattered over its crusty surface but I felt the figures were too spaced out to be effective.  I'm sure the artist Antony Gormley would be disgusted by my criticism but try as I might to get a photo depicting the vastness of the lake and the statues I could not capture more than one in a shot.  Looking to the distance the statues appear as very small blurry lines – and I have near perfect vision.   I must admit I am impressed by the premise of the statues and only wish that they had been placed a little bit closer to each other – but I guess this is not what Mr Gormley was seeking to achieve.

 

From Lake Ballard we headed around the Golden Discovery trail to Leonora which has the best country library that I have ever visited.  It is the Shire offices and TeleCentre housed in a heritage building with pine bookcases lining the wall, an open fireplace and comfortable couches which were very inviting.  I sat and read a Country Living magazine which featured the region in an article whilst the children excitedly pulled up a fluffy seat each and read a book together whilst Rob paced the floor impatient to move on.

 

Friday found us touring Kalgoorlie, first the WA Museum with the old mining buildings and the gold vaults (complete with lots of gold!).  We then went for a wander through town, had a tyre repaired, did some shopping and visited Hammond Park – a great spot for the kids with lots of birds, emus, kangaroos and play equipment.  We came to Hammond Park to see a miniature castle made out of local gemstones which stands only about ten feet tall in total, but the children were more interested in a cockatoo that spoke to them and a slide made out of rollers much like a factory processing line – it was very quick and great fun – just a bit too short a ride for me.

 

Saturday the plan was to visit the Mining Hall of Fame in the morning and travel on to Coolgardie in the afternoon but the Hall of Fame was so good we skipped Coolgardie altogether.  This place caters to all ages and was probably the highlight of the trip for us as a family.  First we were able to pan for gold and managed to get a few specks which was very exciting, particularly for Sophie and I.  Then we travelled down in to an old mine shaft via an old elevator.  Jim our guide was able to give us a feel of what it was like to work underground then it was over to see Johnno who provided us with a gold pouring demonstration and even allowed us to take home some of the spill – it was an amazing site to see and to then be able to hold the gold bar was the final coup.  We then went for a wander around the site which has been built to look like the old Kalgoorlie and learnt all about how tough Paddy Hannan and the other original prospectors had it back over a century ago.  The Hall of Fame also had a travelling exhibition about water which really interested the kids but Sophie and I were most entranced by the variety of precious gems on show in one of the rooms – the colours were mesmerising.  With low blood sugars we made our way back to Hammond Park to see our favourite feathered friend one last time and one last play – Coolgardie will have to wait until another visit. 

 

Sunday morning saw the van packed, a load of washing on the line and us driving out the gate and it wasn't even 9am.  The rush?  The Super Pit beckoned!  We were like a well oiled machine (for once!)  Boulder Market Day is held on the third Sunday of every month and on this day the Super Pit conduct hour long bus tours down in to the mine for free so we had decided that this was a much better way for us to see the Super Pit than pay $50.00 each and spend considerably more time cooped up in a bus with the kids.  Rob and Matt lined up in the queue for our seats whilst Sophie and I checked out the markets, after all what girl can resist markets?  Not these two shopaholics!

 

The tour of the Super Pit was worth the wait, the Pit is one of the largest gold mines in the world at 3kms long by 1.4kms wide and 330 metres deep.  Only 0.9% of what is taken out of the mine is gold – a total of 800,000 tonnes per annum currently.  The trucks are just immense, they weigh 160 tonnes and carry out 220 tonnes every half hour so you wouldn't want to get in the way.  The tyres alone are worth $100,000 each and the mine was fortunate to set a contract a few years back at a cost of $30,000 a tyre.  Even at this cost if a tyre is blown it takes 16 loads out of the Super Pit to make up the cost – almost a days work.  There are around 32 trucks working in the mine with workers on site for twelve hours at a time on a rotating roster of seven days on, three days off, seven nights on, four days off.  To obtain work in the mine you can do an induction course through Curtin University School of Mines.  The induction course costs $3,000 and you are not guaranteed a job at the end.  If you do pass the induction course and are hired you are on a starting salary of close to $800 a day and you are seated up three stories behind the wheel of one of these trucks, and to think that they hire 70% women as they are better drivers - of course.  I volunteered to do the induction course and work for a year – I calculated you could make up to $200,000 before tax – If Rob would look after the kids – I'm still waiting for the jury to get back to me on that!

 

On our first morning in the caravan park we were able to deduce that the shift commences at 6am by the number of vehicles leaving the park between 5.30am and 5.45am, this was followed by the first jet leaving for the day at around 6am, right over our heads, and then the return of all the night shift staff around 6.15am onwards - Good morning Kalgoorlie!  The good news is that whilst we were away it rained in Esperance – even out on the farm!

 

So then it was back to Esperance.  We are enjoying the ease of travelling with the Goldstream.  It is very easy to tow which means that we are able to sit on the speed limit unlike the big vans sitting on eighty km/h and we still have the power to overtake if required.  Yet when we reach our camp site we don't have to spend hours setting up camp as we did when we had tents or a camper trailer.  We arrived at the caravan park at 5pm and we were sitting down to dinner at 6.30pm with nothing left to be done to our camp.

 

The next weekend it rained – but only on the coast.  Saturday Rob worked and on Sunday we played mini-golf.  This is something that Matthew has been very keen to do for some time, I think the anticipation was greater than the experience.  Tuesday Rob went to a course and greeted me at home as I was running late to collect the kids to tell me he had lost his credit card.  So it was off to the bank for me to cancel our cards and request an urgent replacement in the hope that the cards might arrive before we set off.  The Esperance bank changed the address for deliveries to them to ensure it would be delivered and yet they didn't arrive – we believe that they will be waiting for us in Exmouth with the rest of our mail when we get there as the pins arrive with the last of our redirected mail. 



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life, love, happiness and a snake in a leaking van!

The first night of the month of April brought rain, rain, rain and more rain – just overnight mind you.  The locals say that there wasn't much but forgive me if I feel differently, after all I was standing in it in the middle of the night holding a torch whilst Rob dangled precariously 10 feet up on top of the van trying to fashion a fly over the kids bed.  Beforehand I lay in bed listening to the lovely sound of the rain falling and thought that I should check on the kids since I had given the bed fly to Karl, our friendly upholsterer at Bay of Isles Motor Trimming.  Karl wanted to measure the size of the fly in order to make bags to attach to the van in which to store the flys so they wouldn't need to be removed from the van each time we travel on.  Little did I know that the old stitch holes left when we had Mark at Sneddon's Canvas in Finley restitch the van would allow water to seep in to the van and start dripping down on the children.

 

Suffice to say Rob excelled with the tarping, and didn't slip off the wet roof, I squashed the kids in closer together and they were none the wiser in the morning.  I cancelled out of assisting at school and instead purchased a heater and dried out the van.  Karl suggested I get a candle and rub wax in the holes so that this wouldn't happen again, which I did and this seems to be working.

Lesson to be learned from this is never put up the van without the flys and the bags are therefore going to be a great investment.

 

This isn't the first time that the van has leaked.  After we finally had it returned to us, from having its overhaul prior to us leaving for the big trip, we thought we should set it up in the backyard, with a storm imminent, before we headed to Sydney to spend Christmas in it - after all there was the prediction of rainfall for Sydney over the Christmas period.  I came out the morning after the rain to find that one end had given way – the stitching had torn apart and the van was full of water.  A call to Sneddon's Canvas gave us a booking to have it repaired in a month – only a week before we were to set off for the big trip and a month after we needed it for our trip to Sydney.  It was suggested to Tarzan grip the pieces together and clamp them in the meantime, which we did.  Thankfully it worked a treat and it didn't rain whilst we were in Sydney.  Mark then restitched the van for us so that there would be no further little surprises of that nature.

 

School holidays arrived and we headed out to camp at the Agnew's farm for two weeks for a change of scenery.  This meant also that the children might see more of their father as he has been leaving before the rest of us are out of bed and getting home just in time for dinner.  Instead Rob managed to fit in an extra half hour each side of the day which would have otherwise been spent travelling.  The kids enjoyed the great open spaces on the farm and built a cubby, played with boxes, watered the vegie patch excessively and rode their bikes.  They rounded up sheep, rode in the tractor with their Dad and built fires with their Aunt which is every pyromaniac Escott's dream.  Matthew managed to once again have a stack and do some serious damage to his good looks!!!  His last spill was over the handlebars of his bike, this time he flew over the top of the his tip truck.  The two were moving swiftly along and then the tip truck hit an immovable object and ceased its journey – Matthew did not and took off much of the skin on his face in his disastrous landing – I have posted a photo of the latest war wounds in the album, unfortunately these were taken after a few days of healing so they don't look so bad.

 

The children finished the school term by catching a bug which they proceeded to share with their mother.  It gave me the excuse to sit back and relax and it also slowed the kids down a little so it was good they were on holidays.  Matthew is prone to ear infections and woke one night screaming in pain - so loudly he woke his sister, so it was off to casualty with Marg in tow to keep me company.  After a little wait the Doctor concurred my diagnosis, gave Matthew some antibiotics and sympathy, said to maintain the Panadol to relieve the pain and sent us on our merry way.  And merry it was, as it was then that my son, dressed in his Wags the Dog all-in-one sleepsuit, let loose with a rendition of Zippedy do dah – yes we departed to the tune of "My oh my, what a wonderful day!"

 

Sophie and I celebrated our birthdays on the second weekend of the month.  It was only my birthday but I chose to share it with Sophie as she could therefore receive her presents at the start of the holidays rather than the week before we leave Esperance - which is when her birthday really falls.  Terrible I know, but the Queen does it so why shouldn't Sophie?  Anyway it was a bad decision on my part as instead of a pleasant sleep in for my birthday I had a child calling out "Now?" every five minutes from five am!  The day proceeded most enjoyably after we got over that little hurdle and we celebrated with a meal at the Gibson Soak Hotel with Marg and Rob.  The Gibson Soak is one of those old Pubs with a great air of welcome about it and delicious meals.  It's just 15 mins up the road from Esperance, with the most amazing Moreton Bay Fig tree sitting out the front.

 

Further on children and toys - in all the reading I did in preparation for this trip I once read a suggestion to take only one toy per child, that just seemed too harsh to me.  The writer who had travelled with his family for eighteen months around Australia suggested a couple of Barbie dolls for girls and Hot Wheels for boys.  We left home with a box of toys for each child and have since celebrated both children's birthdays whilst we have been here, and I have come to the conclusion that this man knew what he has writing about.  For Sophie it is not Barbie but Polly Pocket who will travel on with us and Matthew has his Hot Wheels.  This of course does not include the bedtime companions of Miss Polly, Cherry Bear and Uni for Sophie, and Albert Bear and Wombie for Matthew.  Joanie (the children's paternal grandmother) bought Matthew some little plastic diggers, tough trucks and tractors for Christmas and stated that she didn't expect to see them make it home.  Although Matthew has dragged them everywhere they still look great and I hope he will prove her wrong, being proportionate to Hot Wheels they are a great size and will be easy to pack to travel on.   Nana Judi (the maternal grandmother) also bought well – she gave him a metal detector which is a great friend magnet, there is nothing for Matthew and a mate to go hunting and manage to attract another three children to their adventure.  Ultimately we have found that as long as the children have each other and their imagination they are happy – rain, hail or shine.

 

Speaking of rain - the rains came again, which just confirmed to us that we have done the right thing in travelling and we are in the right place at present as back home is still parched.  But unfortunately with rain came more water in the van, yes, yet again we encountered another leak.  I therefore spent the day pulling out the seat cushions which were nailed and screwed in to the wall and found that, considering the amount of mould present, this has happened before.  I went and purchased some Velcro and have proceeded to stick this to the cushions and will then stick the other side to the walls so that next time we can just rip them out and dry them (then again, lets hope there isn't a next time!)

 

Another birthday celebrated in April was Rob Agnew's.  Rob had become quite relaxed whilst sitting in Rob Escott's camp chair on occasion, and had admired the chair (enough to warrant a purchase).  The look on his face on seeing the chair was priceless, I was just waiting for him to say he was going to put it "straight in the Pool Room" to quote The Castle.  As Marg would be the only one not having a birthday in the four months that we are in Esperance we bought her a chair as well, hers a more upright model, both are by the same company and made in the same navy material but Marg's has a tan trim around the edges with Robs having a black trim – a real his and hers set!

 

We headed back to the caravan park on the last weekend of the month, before school resumed.  In the process of setting up the van I opened the door and reached in to pull out the plastic step so I could get in and put together the door.  On the ledge I saw a blackish strip but figured it was a bit of rubber or a toy of the kids but that strip turned out to be a snake.  I must have startled him reaching in to the van as he jumped from the ledge with his mouth open and fangs out.  Fortunately he was only about 30cms long and when he jumped I retracted my arm from the van and he just fell down to the step below wriggling and squirming.  I was able to joke later that he was a feisty little thing and looked to be saying "Come back here, I can take you on!"   At the time I don't think that I left anyone in the caravan park with any doubt as to what I was screaming about.  Rob once again came to my rescue and took care of the situation whilst I wandered around muttering under my breath that I was never getting into that van again.

 

Sure enough I recovered my composure and we continued to set up camp without our awning.  We broke it the first time we used it as we had no instructions on how to work it but until now we had still managed to get it to move.  Packing up out on the farm it seized up and we couldn't get it to open at all when we got to town.  Rob and I fashioned a tarp out the front of the van to provide us with some protection from the elements and since then I have attached the sides of the annex to the tarp on two sides to give us some protection from the coastal winds which can be quite strong and chilly.  This is a great new set up as it is twice the size of the regular annex - we are very happy with it and will probably even leave it this way after Rob fixes the awning.  The kids loved having somewhere to spread out their stuff at Rob and Marg's and so I have gone out this week and purchased a tent for them to put all their toys in.  The tent is only a three man tent but is big enough to use for a night if we ever decide to go 'real rough' where the caravan cannot follow, such as off the Gibb River Road in the Kimberly.  As it is waterproof the kids can spread out their toys inside and I don't have to worry about the mess, or that they will be left out in the rain as they have been previously.  Sophie is understandably thrilled and would be happy sleeping out there – she may soon get her wish!!

 

The plans are in motion for heading north.  We have booked Exmouth and Broome to ensure we have accommodation in both these busy locations.  The plan is to go to one of the cheap camps at Exmouth for a couple of weeks so we can truly enjoy the Ningaloo Reef and hopefully get to swim with the whale sharks.  First we need to have accommodation for a night or two so we can find where we want to stay and then be there early in the morning to get a spot as there is no reserving allowed and it's a case of first in best dressed.  Broome books out very quickly so we have planned ahead there but that is as far as we have got.  We have arranged a general itinerary but it is all subject to change based on conditions and whatever else we find along the way.  After all - it's all about the journey not the destination.



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March in Esperance

Well another month has passed us by quickly and I find it amazing that we are coping so well and not really missing too much from our five bedroom house, especially considering we are now living in one room that is a whole three metres wide by six and a half metres long (not including annex).  In fact the other day I packed up a box of miscellaneous items that we will not be taking along with us when we move on, I hope to have at least another one or two before we leave Esperance – these will most likely be forwarded to that wonderful mother of mine to mind until we return!

 

So how have we spent our time in Esperance in the past month?  Well the first weekend I noted in the last instalment that we went to Mt Ridley and along the beaches with the Osborne's. 

 

The next weekend Rob worked the Saturday morning for one of the Agnew's neighbours to compensate for taking some time off the preceding week, as in the afternoons the temperature had been peaking as high as 49 degrees celsius and he was to be outside in a paddock pulling out fence posts.  My day commenced with a visit to one of the local car dealers with a German friend, Sascha.  He and his girlfriend Sybella are travelling Australia and came to Esperance for a few days and two months later are still here due to vehicle repair delays.  They have managed to obtain some work to assist them in their travels on from here, even arranging to stay a further three weeks to get a bit more money in their pockets whilst they can.

 

In the afternoon, on Robs return, we conducted a beach tour to the west, covering all the Twilight Bay area which consists of West Beach, Second Beach, Blue Haven Beach, Salmon Beach, Fourth Beach, Twilight Beach, Nine Mile Beach and Eleven Mile Beach, how many beaches does one place need?  We chose Blue Haven Beach to enjoy a swim with smaller waves and no apparent rip but only the children managed to get went beyond the knees – Rob and I found the water was way too chilly!

 

We went out to have a look at the wind farm and stood under one of the huge wind turbines and listened to the amazing sounds made as the blades cut through air.   I can understand why this was the site of the first wind farm in Australia but do not understand why there aren't more turbines scattered over the hill area.  Our next stop was (not so) Pink Lake which if you squint into the sun in the right direction does look slightly pink.  It is usually much pinker but at present is slightly mushroom coloured.  Anyone who has known Sophie for long enough would know of her past obsession (yes it was an obsession) with pink.  The previous time we were here the lake was a much stronger hue and so the kids and I would venture out once a week for Sophie to get to see 'her' Pink Lake.

 

The following Saturday was the much feted Yabby Classic at Grass Patch, a small community 75kms north of Esperance so we drove up to check it out.  There were jumping castles, a merry-go-round, a laser shooting game and there were yabby competitions galore including, of course, yabby races.  The kids were able to have a turn at one game where they had to scoop into a tank and see if they could catch a yabby, after a few attempts they each managed to catch their yabbies and win a prize.

 

Sunday morning saw Go Kart racing to the side of the Speedway track.  Rob took Sophie, Matthew and Sascha out to have a look and all were most impressed by the noise, the speed and the fun had by all competitors, Rob was even offered a job for the day if he wanted it!  That evening Marg and I went to see Juno at the movies which was so well scripted I had tears in my eyes from laughing at one stage, I worked out that the last time I sat in a theatre was to see Shrek 2 with Sophie on our last visit here in 2004.

 

The next weekend was Easter.  On Good Friday we headed out to Israelite Bay, around 200kms to the east, for a day of 4WDriving.  The first 150kms are great, 100kms of bitumen then onto a very decent dirt road but then you enter the National Park and the road is… er, um, not good….  I asked Rob to describe it as I was having trouble being complimentary and he said "65kms in two hours says it all" and he is right – jarring corrugations on the harder soils alternating with very soft sand.  One moment you are gunning the engine trying to maintain momentum on the sand and then you are slamming on the brake to avoid damage to self or vehicle as you hit kilometre after kilometre of corrugations.  I guess I have to get used to it, when we head north we will be encountering a lot more corrugations.  Apparently the trick is not to slow down but to take them fast with the hope that you will rise on one and fall on another thereby reducing the number you have to tackle!

 

The Saturday night was spent at Esperance Speedway, we took Sascha along for a bit of culture – he he! and he had a ball even winning the $100 raffle.  One of Matthew's best mates from school, James, was there so it was a very enjoyable evening for the kids.  The start of the evening being a huge hit as they had watered down the track and so every now and then the mud would fly in our direction. 

 

Easter Sunday, with the weather not too flash, it was out to Marg and Robs to check on the sheep in the morning and then off to the Esperance Puppet Festival in the afternoon. We saw Ziggy Swift, a hip-hopping, break-dancing puppet guarded by two rather stern Matrix styled bouncer types who then  proceeded to assist us in a workshop to make our very own Ziggy style puppets from recycled matter.  Two plastic shopping bags were the main items which formed the body and the head and then other items were added to personalise the creations. Sophie created a little girl called Olivia, after her best friend back in Berrigan, Matthew managed to obtain a name badge for his puppet with the name Gabrielle written on it and so it was named.  Mine was Fizzle after its Schweppes drink bottle lids eyes.  The puppets are to be taken to Perth to be entered into a Guinness Book of Records attempt for the most puppets in one place which is good but there was a bit of separation anxiety at having to farewell our puppets after all our hard work.

 

Monday and Tuesday were school holidays for the kids and so we went to the great Bay of Isles Leisure Centre for some more fun.  This time we took our new goggles and snorkel for the children to learn to use prior to us hitting the Ningaloo Reef in June.  I thought it might take them a while to get used to but alas I was wrong they were diving around the pool in no time, snorkels sure have changed since I was a kid as they now have valves to dispel water out the bottom if it comes in the top – not bad eh?  

 

The last weekend of March saw us making the most of all the friends that the kids have made over Easter period in the Caravan Park before they move on.  There have been cricket matches down in the playground, bike races through the park, singing and dancing, games of cards and so forth.  Living in the caravan park has been great for the kids, it's like having friends on tap at all hours of the day.  Calls of "can Matthew come for a ride?" are heard even when they are at school and I am hanging out the washing.  To date they have made many great mates.  Grace and Chelsea, then Cooper and Mackenzie, then Kallie, Ebonie, Hannah and Lawson, then Jackson and Sophia, and Jake, Xavier and his cousin Elijah, and Aiden and Rory, Thomas and Kyra, then Hannah and Gemma and many others in between that I have already forgotten their names.  As I type this Rob is umpiring a game of cricket between about five or seven of them ranging from eight down to four.

 

Yesterday, Sunday, was the annual Esperance Fun Day Out Kids Festival at the Port Of Esperance Authority with craft activities, workshops, games, music, performances, jumping castles, a water slide and numerous other kids' activities to entertain.  Sophie was truly in her element, as I type this I am wearing a pair of earrings that she made which are just gorgeous and she also made a flower lantern.  They both made rainmakers, origami water bombs, painted boxes, puppets, drums and so forth.  I think Sophie could have just moved in for life and was most disappointed when it all came to an end as we hadn't managed to do 'everything'.

 

At present, when I exit our caravan, I am beset by some of the most gorgeous landscape photography I have ever seen - plastered to the side of a camper trailer.  If you like your landscapes I recommend that you check out the website of the photographer, our current neighbours at www.rastanley.com. The Stanley's are doing a similar trip to us but Rich is taking photos as he travels to sell through his shop out of Sydney and online. 

 

During the weeks when the kids are at school and Rob is at work I have been helping out a bit at the school with either Sophie's or Matthew's class as required, running errands, shopping, washing and cleaning, washing and cleaning and did I mention washing and cleaning?  Then there's the interesting bits like chatting to the other travellers staying at the Park, improving our van, annex and ute in preparation for the rest of the trip, and getting stickers made for the front windscreen of the ute and the back of the caravan.  We wanted to come up with something snappy like so many of the grey nomads have like "Spending the kids inheritance"  or "Dun a runner" or something explanatory like "Bob and Shirl, Ch 18".  If anyone has anything catchy to offer let me know – at present it is just the web site address.

 

 

 



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February in Esperance

On Saturday we finished settling in to our new home, adding the final touches including putting up our awning and annex for the first time to find that the repairs made were a little amiss.  With some helpful advice and a visit from Kevin Tobin from Esperance Caravan and Camping Centre we were able to 'make do'.  We hauled off the bikes that had caused Rob so much angst on the way over – if only I had a dollar for every time he said that we should dump them – I could buy myself a box of Smirnoff Ice to ease the pain!  Then again it might be better spent on a slab of beer for him!!  I am referring to the fact that at present we cannot do any tight turns and by that I mean anything tighter than 120 degrees – which made traversing Adelaide near impossible – but really the warped wheel on my bike is hardly noticeable now that we have done some backyard doctoring.  So some adjustments to the travelling configuration will need to be made whilst we are here in Esperance and have full use of workshop facilities (thanks to the Agnew's), one major one will be to shift the bikes from the back of the Ute to the back of the caravan.

 

On the Sunday we played in Adventure Park, a great playground where we spent many of our days four years ago, and had lunch at the Tea Rooms with Marg and Rob which brought back some great memories.  The children went for a ride on the miniature railway whilst we were there and even experienced a derailment – got to do it again and again in order for the engineers (retired farmers) to figure out what was amiss. 

 

We have been fishing on the jetty – Matthew even managed to catch something (the Jetty!!!) and we have seen Sammy the Sea Lion who lives there and enjoys the treats that the fishermen throw to him as they fillet their catch. We have seen sharks, and squid being caught along with the usual fish.

 

We have visited the Agnew's Farm which Matthew has been impatient to do for some time, and look forward to visiting again soon.  We have celebrated two birthdays, Robs and Matthews and wish family well on two birthdays as well – Mick and Ellie.  We have visited the Bay of Isles Leisure Centre which 3 year old Sophie had rated as the best pool in the world and on revisiting has renewed that claim.  We stayed for hours and hours it is so much fun for their age group.  Matthew was a wrinkled up prune with very red and sore eyes by the time we left, it was a great way to fill in a rainy day.  The next day the weather was much better and so our first visit to the beach was in order, we rode down the street a little and then had great fun playing in the surf, getting covered in sand, hunting for metals with Matt's detector and flying our kites. 

 

I have filled my days seeking work, performing minor repairs and changes to the caravan, including cleaning and repacking the caravan since we left in such a hurry, and general home duties and am worried at present how I will ever be able to fit the time in to have a job.  Living in such small confines means the cleaning is endless trying to maintain clear space – packing up after young children.  The caravan park where we are staying is lovely, the toilets and laundry are immaculate and well set up and there is a camp kitchen as well which is handy. 

 

The weather in the first few weeks had been very changeable; the same wind that led us away from Streaky Bay at Ceduna has also been present right across the Nullarbor – causing unseasonably low temperatures.  From what I can tell though Esperance is prone to this sort of weather, it gives Melbourne's 'four seasons in one day' reputation a run for its money!!!  Rob laments that he will be wearing jeans and a jumper shivering in the chilling wind and suddenly he is stripping down to shorts once the wind dies down – then the rain will come in – sideways!  We have been most fortunate that the weather has improved greatly and is now like we were anticipating.  The sun is shining, the wind has died down and the view from where I am sitting to type this is just magical.  But with a cyclone off the coast up north at present they are anticipating a change any day.

 

We attempted home schooling for the first week in Esperance and we were so unsuccessful that we enrolled both children at Esperance Primary School by Wednesday with Sophie commencing Year 2 the next day with Mrs Linda McGovern and Matthew commenced his first day of Pre-Primary (as Prep, Kindergarten and Reception is referred to over here) with Mrs Alison Rees on the Friday. 

 

Sophie is in year two over here as they do not really focus hard on the 'R's until year 1, she is one of the smallest and youngest and is behind the other children but I am hopeful this will assist us when we get back on the road.  She is in the largest class (and classroom) in the school with 23 Year two's just in her class and a further full class of 20 Year 2's at the school – making St Columba's seem very small indeed.  She has made great friends with a girl called Charlie and they seem to be very well suited, her other friends are Ella, Tamika and Emma.  She misses Olivia a great amount and this would be one of her main reasons for homesickness so hopefully making friends at school will alleviate some of this for her.

 

The next weekend we were fortunate enough to catch up with my cousin Cameron on the Saturday and take a cruise with the whole Agnew clan (and a mate of Cam's, Dean Ruby) thanks to the generosity of Marg and Rob.  We ventured out on the a Mackenzie's Island Cruise to see seals, sea lions, eagles, and geese at Seal Rocks and many other islands in the Archipelago and enjoyed a relaxing morning tea on Woody Island before cruising back to Esperance in time for lunch with Marg and Rob.  Sophie was very keen to see dolphins whilst on the cruise and was a tad bit disappointed that we were unable to see any on the day but she has stated that the seals certainly made up for that.  We got some great photos which we will add to the phot album on the website.

 

We had Sophie's first school excursion last week – to Wylie Bay and Bandy Creek harbour.  I have never seen so much seaweed in one place in my life and I have been to a fair amount of beaches!!!  The stuff was about half a metre deep and for once I am not exaggerating.  Children were getting lost up to their mid thigh in places and that was only with the compacting of the 'stuff', they were still not touching the bottom.  We then went to the harbour where the dredging equipment is trying to clear the mouth of the river as it has been blocked since the floods last year when the wave action hauled thousands of tonnes of sand in off the beaches in to the estuary.  The children were fortunate to be invited to visit the fish processing unit whilst we were there and we were able to see the men cutting up sharks and then see live crayfish and also king crabs which were rather formidable.  All in all a very exciting day.

 

Matthew is loving Pre-Primary and has mates called Summer, Porsche, Jett, Shanade, Willow and others I cannot remember off the top of my head but suffice to say his plain old name looks rather out of place – knew I should have called him Rocket, Ford, Winter or Glider.  Due to his age we were not able to get Matthew in to year 1, they are very strict about the ages and so I am lucky now that I delayed Sophie's start to school.  There was a great deal of discussion with the teachers at the school and at the Hay DEC (School of the Air) and it was decided that it wouldn't hurt Matt to go to pre-primary and then, if necessary, start school next year as this way I would also have more time to devote to Sophie on the road when we head off and Rob can spend some time with Matt.

 

Rob has been working for my aunt and uncle, Marg and Rob Agnew, since we arrived and I am led to believe that all three are very happy to be reunited – I am most pleased that they all get along so well.  This week Rob has commenced two weeks work with one of Rob and Marg's neighbours – pulling out fences, there's some cattle work for another neighbour to be done and still plenty more to do at the Agnews.

 

Last weekend we had a great day out with Reece and Paula Osborne and their two young children Grace and Chelsea.  We have gotten to know them over the weeks here in the caravan park – mainly at the washing line!  On Saturday we travelled out to see Mt Ridley which is like a smaller version of Wave Rock at Hyden.  The sun was fierce on the day and much too hot for serious hiking with young children so the men tried to see as much as they could whilst Paula and I and the kids chatted and played in a hollow rock which was obviously a former home of the Aborigines.  The blokes saw some interesting rock formations and a bit of Aboriginal rock art but not the wave rock and there was still more to see and so we might come back on a cooler day.  From there we headed south to the beach and found a creek that feeds in to the ocean for the kids to throw themselves in after being very patient all morning. 

 

We attempted to slide down the sand dunes but found the sand was so light that even the kids sunk down and couldn't build up momentum, even on tarps and lifejackets.  We then drove back to Esperance via the beaches, which was a great experience, and another great photo opportunity.  Rob had been looking forward to this for quite a while and it was great to experience it with someone who had done it before.  Reece and Paula left on Monday and we hope that we might be able to catch up with them up north somewhere once they have done the west coast.

 

 



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Stage 1 - Across the Nullarbor

We managed to get away from home on Saturday 2nd February, only a day later than planned and a day or two earlier than I thought possible.  We drove straight through that day to Sharyn and Paul Lyford in Adelaide, arriving just in time for dinner – which by the way was most enjoyable especially since it was Charlotte's 6th birthday.

 

The next day we drove to a beach south of Adelaide and had a picnic with the Lyfords, with plenty of successful shell, crab and starfish hunting done by all.  Matthew couldn't remember ever playing in waves and we are very thankful these were small as I don't think anything would have prevented him from hurling himself at the surf with full vigour.  It was a most enjoyable day.  Once again the four children slid into their old friendships like they have been together forever and it is really heartening to know that they all get along so well.

 

Day three we drove on to Port Augusta to stay for the evening in the Beachfront Caravan Park.  It was a very hot day and so the children enjoyed the opportunity of being able to walk along the beach and then play in the swimming pool which we had to ourselves.

 

Day four we crossed the Ayre Peninsula.  The plan had been to drive to Streaky Bay to stay on a beautiful beach for a few days and finally relax after all the hard work packing up for the past few weeks.  Unfortunately the weather had turned foul and the biting wind was enough to change our minds, instead we stopped in Ceduna for the night.

 

Day five found us doing our first big day of driving – and the kids handled it brilliantly which was a godsend – I wouldn't like to do it to them too often and that isn't the plan for this trip, but really there is not much to stop and look at across the Nullarbor.  We stopped at the Nullarbor Roadhouse to see the whale (small replica) and have our photo taken in front of it and the Nullarbor sign.  Next was a stop on the edge of the bite to look over the edge, and then our only other stop was at the Eucla Telegraph Station hidden in the sand-dunes.  There is even less of it evident than there was on our last trip across four years ago so it was good to pay it another visit and show the children what it looked like.  Matthew and Sophie both found themselves bedrooms and really weren't fussed that they were full of sand and missing a roof.  That night we stayed at Madura at the top of the Madura Pass.

 

Friday was the final leg across the Nullarbor and we were in Norseman by lunchtime which was great.  The children read about how the town was named after a horse (remarkably called Norseman) and were able to see some great camel statues made out of corrugated iron which are very well done.  That night we checked in to our home for the next four months at the Esperance Seafront Caravan Park only six days after leaving Berrigan.  Fuel and accommodation are proving to be big expenses and so we have been very thankful for the vouchers given to us at my farewell from work - they're all gone now but they were much appreciated!  Marg welcomed us to Esperance that evening and then our first week on the road was over. 



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Planning for the trip

The decision had been made, the plan was put into action.  Once we decided that we were going to bite the bullet and take this trip we had to consider how.  We had an older Trek Bwana Camper trailer which was no way near in good enough condition nor large enough to house the four of us conveniently as we travelled around Australia.

 

We weighed up how much money we could spend to set ourselves up by deducting how much we considered we would need to conduct the trip.  We wanted to buy a better 4WD as well and so started looking on the internet and via many local and Melbourne dealers for a Diesel Hilux Dual Cab in order to then know how much we would have left over to spend on a camper and all other necessities. 

 

Whilst still searching for the right Hilux, our local caravan dealer, Peter Ennals Cobram Caravans, advertised a Goldstream Goldstar off road Campervan in the paper which I convinced Rob to have a look at even though it was just out of our budget.  This is what I had been wanting for years and it had always been out of our reach.  Regardless, for two months I had been studying their movements on the internet in the hope that I might somehow find a cheap one.  This van had been neglected and needed a little TLC so was much cheaper than comparably sized and aged vans so we agreed to take it and had to reconsider the amount we could pay for a Hilux. 

 

The campervan is ideal for what we have in mind.  Being an off road model it is very solid and will be able to withstand the corrugated roads of the outback, and, as it folds down, it should not be too cumbersome to tow.  It has a three way fridge, a four burner stove, grill, and microwave, mains water point, a 60ltr water tank, 2 x 9kg gas bottles, a battery pack, bed end flys, an outside 2 burner stove and bench, and an awning and annex sides.  It has a reasonable amount of storage area and a great seating arrangement which can also be converted into another bed if required.  The beds consist of one queen for ourselves and a double for the kids, I fashioned a curtain to run down the centre rail so the kids can sleep sideways and have plenty of room each.  Rob fitted a pole carrier to the front and we are still looking at options for a stoneguard.

 

On our way to check out a Hilux I had been watching on Countrycars.com.au we dropped in to Shepparton Toyota and found the perfect vehicle, it had just been traded two days prior and we were later to find out it had belonged to a work colleague of mine and her husband.  The Hilux is a 2004 standard turbo diesel and came fitted with snorkel, bulbar, winch, towball and backstep, tinted windows, central locking, engine immobiliser, and a long range fuel tank.  The vehicle had also been lifted and had shockers on it which was an added bonus and during discussion with the previous owners we were able to obtain some springs and mud tyres to further enhance the ute.  The Hilux also came with a canvas canopy which only had a steel frame and could not be locked so we needed to replace this and fortunate to be able to source a second hand colour-coded fibreglass canopy from Campbellfield Hilux Wreckers in Melbourne.

 

The basics were now complete.  We then had to assess what we didn't already have and work out what we were lacking.  We had previously purchased a porta potti and used a turbo shower with hot water provided by a extra large billy heated by fire.  This we upgraded to a Primus hot water shower service that we bought at the 4wd, Camping and Fishing Show in Melbourne along with an air compressor, a recovery kit, and a tyre seal kit after much previous research.  We purchased a Honda EU20i generator locally from Dawmac Industries who were able to do us the best deal.  We planned to take our Evakool 60ltr fridge/freezer and Rob arranged for fitment of a dual battery system to power this in the ute via the caravan battery.  We then purchased a bike rack, and, with two young children to consider, we also purchased a cheap washing machine on Ebay which we are yet to test.    



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